Ask Your Question

Angie's List Answers is the trusted spot to ask home improvement and health questions and get answers from service companies, health providers and consumers. For ratings and reviews on companies in your area, search Angie's List.

Top 30 Days Experts
Rank Leader Points*
1 kstreett 240
2 Guest_9020487 110
3 Guest_9190926 105
4 GoldenKid 100
5 ahowell 95
6 KnowledgeBase 95
7 skbloom 80
8 Guest_98024861 70
9 Guest_9311297 70
10 Guest_9400529 70

*Updates every 4 hours

Browse Projects By Category

Question DetailsAsked on 8/4/2014

I need to replace the bottom of cabinet under kitchen sink due to water damage. Whom should I hire ?

Do you have the same question? Follow this Question

2 Answers

Angie's List Member Answer

Angie’s List Members can login here to view this answer.

Not an Angie's List Member?

Join to view this answer. Members also get reviews on local service providers, plus save up to 50% on popular home projects from top-rated professionals!

Voted Best Answer

If only the bottom liner piece - the plywood insert that forms the bottom of the under-sink cabinet - a Handyman should be able to do that. If only damaged by water (stained,slight delamination) you might just overlay it with a piece of plywood or linoleum or such. Cost probably about $150-200 depending largely on whether he has to go buy material or happens to have scrap laying around that will work.

If you mean the base of the cabinet (the inset plywood supporting part - about 4-6 inches high typically) is damaged such that the cabinet would normally have to be taken out to repair it, then likely a cabinet installer. If you have solid surface countertop (Corian, marble, granite, etc) it will cost a LOT to take that off and put it back on properly aqnd you risk breaking it, so in that event in-place repair by cutting out pieces of the cabinet base one side at a time and replacing with a screwed-in-place new base section is what I would do, with the front (toe kick) piece being veneered or hardwood or whatever is appropriate for appearance.

If damage is severe, I have done jobs where a cabinet was cut up in place to remove it (supporting the countertop as appropriate in the meantime, then a new cabinet custom made to slip in. Then the cabinet is slipped in under the edge of the countertop and shimmed up to proper height as necessary, with new shimming to support the countertop put on top. If the countertop has a drop edge (front edge is below the bottom of the main "field" of the countertop surface) the base can be built separately and slid in after the cabinet is in place, then fastened to it, or the cabinet can be built a bit low, then a front facade put across the bottom to conceal the shimming gap under it to bring it up tight under the countertop.

If the bottom parts of the plywood sides are damaged, as long as they are not actually rotted or heavily mildewed, I would make sure they are thoroughly dry, then just coer the inside surfaces with a gllued-on overlay like veneer or laminate countertop surface or such, with the front surfaces being veneered as appropriate.

New cabinet construction and installation for one piece, including demounting and remounting the sink and faucet and such as necessary, probably in the $700-1000 range for normal cabinets, more for high-end. If needs to be two-piece to fit it in add another $100-200.

Answered 6 years ago by LCD


Need damage cabinet bottoms repaired

Answered 2 years ago by ritandsteven


Ritandsteven - as origimnal answer to this question said, Handymen commonly do this - or if it involves damage to the cabinet frame itself, not just the bottom panel, your better bet is likely a Cabinet Maker firm - especially if it involves components visible from the front. If just an insert panel in the bottom a good DIY job too.

When you talk to a contractor he is probably going to want the existing dimensions of the "floor" piece, and confirmation it is a separate piece (seam/joint all around) not an integral part of the frame.

For just the bottom, assuming the usual insert panel sitting on the frame rails, you have several repair possibilities below - if just damaged all these apply, if actually rotted (dry rot or fungal wet-rot) best to remove/cut out the damaged portion because that fungal growth can spread. Of course, if overlaying it or painting it, make sure it is thoroughly dried out first. Removal of the bottom panel would be advisable if the water went through or around it to the subfloor underneath, to check for rot there and dry it out thoroughly first.

1) remove panel (commonly only lightly nailed or maybe caulked in, sometimes a few nails or screws) and replace with a piece of plywood (treated plywood roof sheathing best but that only comes in full 4x8 or larger sheets), but can use particle board, OSB, etc. Box home improvement stores and some lumber yards carry "project panels" 2 and 4 feet square which even a smallish car should be able to transport, avoiding the full sheet problem. Some will even cut to size for you at the yard - otherwise not too terrible a handsaw cutting job, or good excuse to get a skil saw for this and future jobs.

2) if not rotten, could also overlay with a piece of painted hardboard, plywood, linoleum, even the plastic-faced shelf paper if just making it look decent is your intent.

3) if not rotten, cover with a scrap of linoleum or sheet vinyl from a flooring store, say a foot or so larger than the "floor" - center in floor and put sides into place, press into corners (preheating with hair dryer makes it a lot more flexible), slitting the corners to provide an overlap of the material at the corners which you can then caulk with silicone caulk. Can be glued down like normal flooring, or just stapled into the sidewalls around the top edge. Doing this makes a "diaper" or "pan" which will trap any leakage that is not actively spraying around, keeping it (especially with small leaks which do not show up immediately) making it come out the front doors where you can see it. Vinyl better than linoleum, because linoleum will eventually break down if a leak sits in there for some time.

4) if not in terrible shape, just paint over with Kilz or similar anti-fungal paint - oil based is far better for this but also messier if you get sloppy, and requires paint thinner for brush cleaning - or for this small a job, maybe just use a 50¢ disposable 3-4 inch brush. Top-coat with desired color paint (semigloss or gloss best forthis purpose) after the anti-fungla primer has dried for at least a week.

BTW - some sink areas have a gap in the framing/bottom panel connecting to a forced air vent or rarely, to a hydronic heating loop or bare pipe or radiator - be sure to leave that open if you have such, because that is designed to keep the under-cabinet area and pipes warm to prevent pipe freezing.

Answered 2 years ago by LCD

Related Questions

Terms Of Use
Privacy Policy