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Question DetailsAsked on 6/9/2016

I like to know it is safe to clean my garage floor with water.

My garage floor is made of concrete, and has some cracks on it. Not major, but there are some.
So, I worry if the water get absorbed from the bottom and get damaged somehow.
Thank you so much!

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1 Answer

Voted Best Answer

You should not get a lot of water down the cracks - or into the joints around the perimeter. NOt that it will hurt the concrete itself, but can get into the foundation, adjacent basement, etc and cause mold problems in quantity. Also, in quantity can cause settlement of the fill under the slab.

A quick hosing down (assuming the slab is on-grade - no room or basement or crawlspace underneath) and brooming/squeeging off every month or less should not be a problem - do not let the water pool on the cracks though. IF you have underlying room or crawlspace with wood framing or foundation, I would mop like a kitchen floor only - no free water.

Easy solution to minimize crack intrusion by the water - use a fine hose spray or a very wet mop to wet the surface with water then spray or sprinkle a bit of detergent or Dawn or such on it (if wet mopping you can have detergent in the bucket of water), stiff contractor/driveway broom it to clean off the dirt, then broom/squeegee that out the door or to the floor drain, then quickly hose off and broom/squeegee dry, or wet mop with clean water, avoiding ponding. Use degreaser spray on oil spots beforehand if you need to.

To "fix" the cracks - assuming these are hairline to pencil tip size only so non-structural - you can get tubes of latex concrete caulk, roughly concrete color, to squeeze into the cleaned-out cracks and the perimeter joint so the water does not go down in there anymore, then you can hose the garage floor as long as you don't get it on drywall or under doors - but still broom/squeegee dry right after, don't let water sit against foundation/walls. If you have wood/drywall walls (as opposed to block or concrete) skip the hosing and stay with wet mopping, especially if the floor does not self-drain to the drive or floor drain. Check tube instructions - some want damp concrete, some dry. Get the water cleanup type, use a flat drywall knife (roughly 4" flat spatula type) to press it down into the crack if small and to level it, then carefully use wet paper towels or rags to wipe up the portion that got on the adjacent concrete - using a fresh wet surface to wipe with on every pass so you are not smearing the caulk all over.

If a surface with special surfacing ask the installer - or carefully use a clear silicone caulk to caulk the crack, or some people (on small cracks) use clear superglue to waterproof them.

One thing on floor drain - they plug up with grit/sand easily, so at least wash the dirt down the drain VERY well with full-flow hose at a minimum. Better to wet-broom and push the bulk of the grit to where you can pick it up BEFORE it can get down the drain. IF drain clogs up, sometimes shoving a hose into it with a jet spray nozzle on jeet setting will clean it out, sometimes you have to use a wet-dry vac to pull back the blocking grit - in extreme cases where a lot of road dirt drippings (especially in heavy winter road sand use areas) have plugged it up, requires a sewer.drain cleaning service to clean it out.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD


Thank you so much LCD.

I sucessfully finished the cleaning!!

Answered 3 years ago by greenqqq

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