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Question DetailsAsked on 4/16/2014

I would like to have washer and electric dryer moved from the basement to master bath on second floor.

The house is 24 years old, in the process of finishing the basement. Bathroom is plenty large for washer and dryer. Master bath is going to get remodeled (replacing flooring, vanity and lights). Tub with shower and tile surround and commode are fine. There are two closets that connect in an L shape on the back wall of the bathroom directly over the electric box in the basement.

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4 Answers

Voted Best Answer
2
Votes

Well this certainly sounds like a great Idea and certainly a doable scenario ,sounds like you got plenty of room for the expansion . You are going to need a 220Volt outlet for the Dryer ,and a seperate GFI outlet for the washer , have you ample room in your electric panel for such Expansion ? What about lighting in the Laundry center ? You'll need an electrician and electrical Permit to make those Installs and Inspections.


You are gonna need a 2" drain for the washer and need to connect it to a minimal drain of 2" or larger , as we do not know where such drains are located , can't comment much more about that , except that requires a Plumbing Permit and a plumber . You are gonna need a 3" vent at minimum for the dryer ,so we will assume that you can run it out the back wall behind the dryer ,you'll need a mechanical permit for that .


You are going to need a General Contractor or Remodeling contractor for the carpentry work and of course a Building Permit and Inspections and probably a couple of strong backs for relocating the washer and Dryer. A painter will be required for painting , unless of course you'll be doing that task yourself. You are probably going to need a flooring mechanic unless the general contractor can handle that .


Well ,based on the information provided , I don't know how much more info we can provide ,seems we have covered the known bases and requirements . Not knowing dimensions existing , not much way to estimate any costs as there are still many unknowns . What else can we tell you ?

Hope this helps in your planning ...................


opp'S ALMOST FORGOT , IF , THE ORIGINAL structure was constructed prior to 1978

and you have small children and the Lady of the House is of Child bearing age , You may be required to have the house tested for lead contamination and USE LEAD Certified Contractors following Lead Abatement Rules. Another Unknown for US,,so just an added thought ................but according to computations , the stucture was constructed about 1990,,,so all should be fine.................!

Answered 5 years ago by BentheBuilder

0
Votes

Big +1 to Ben's feedback.


Do not...do not...skip the drain requirement here.

Answered 5 years ago by WoWHomeSolutions

0
Votes

I would question putting W&D in a bathroom - that is goofy and could impact resale value unless totally concealed in a closet say. Basically, that is an efficiency apartment trick, putting in a bathroom or as an appliance right in the kitchen, not something you expect to see in a home. Why not put then in one of the two closets - even if it means jockeying the wall between the closets in the course of the remodel.

Answered 5 years ago by LCD

0
Votes

Thanks for all the good advice.


To the remark about moving the washer and dryer upstairs. It is becoming more and more popular to have the washer and dryer on the floor where all the things are that get washed and dried. Why should I climb up and down two flights of stairs from the bedrooms (where all the clothing, towels, sheets and linens in general are) to the basement carrying all the clothing, linens, etc. up and down. It makes no sense to me.


The closets are continous in an L shape on the back corner of the upstairs level. There are two big sliding mirrored doors that open and the closets are connected. The depth is probably not deep enough for the washer and dryer. However, the bathroom needs to be remodeled and moving the doors out a foot will not hurt the size of the bathroom.


I need to find someone to do the work. Any suggestions?

Answered 5 years ago by Guest_9460884

0
Votes

Oh, I have no question about moving the washer and dryer upstairs - we have ours in a walk-in laundry/pantry alcove along one side of the kitchen (upstairs where all bedrooms are), and it was a major energy saver for my wife when the kids were small - no question it is nice.



My point was having them in a bathroom is odd and might negatively affect resale value. I understand about the closets. Is your configuration such that maybe you could use bathroom space for the W&D, but have the access actually be from the hall - basically putting them into a new hall closet that takes a few feet away from the bathroom ?


A General Contractor specializing in remodels can do this work for you - Search the List for local ones with good reviews. I would question, since you said you are getting the master bath remodelled, why not have the same contractor do the W&D move too - you need basically all the same types of subcontractors for this work too, and it would be a relatively minor add-in, plus affects the bathroom also so why not wrap into one job.



A word to the wise - I would ensure the W&D bay have one of two things installed - either a DEEP catchpan under the washer with LARGE (3" or larger) drain pipe, or a waterproof floor with a floor drain, so if the washer overflows or hose breaks your water damage is minimized - an upstairs washer failure, especially if you are out of the house at the time, can really cause a trememdous amount of upstairs floor damage and downstairs water damage. THis is double important in your case because you are right over your breaker box - imagine the damage potential if that ever gets flooded.


I also recommend the automatic electric shutoff valve boxes with a flood sensor, which electrically cut off the water flow to the hoses both when the washer is not actually operating and drawing power, and also if the sensor detects water in the pan - protects against both hose breakage when you are out of the house, and overflow due to stuck fill switch, broken pump housing, or borken hose. Cost about $150 extra if installed when W&D are moved. Does have one downside which is not a big thing for most people - normally extends fill time about 25% because the extra valve restricts the incoming water flow a bit.



The cheap plastic pans work OK and are a lot better than nothing, but my recommendation is always to build the W&D AND dishwasher bays like a walk-in shower - waterpoof tile or shower pan or seamless vinyl flooring wrapped up the walls about 4 inches and 1-2 inch high waterproof sill across the front, with floor drain. In many code jurisdictions, since leakage in this area is not considered blackwater (sewage) and is only an emergency overflow, the code considers piping an overflow drain outdoors the same as if the overflow just ran over the floor and out the door, so you can pipe it direct to the outside of the house and dump it there with just a bug screen flapper mounted so it pops out if it gets clogged up and back the water up. This is FAR cheaper than plumbing it like a normal floor drain, which requires a trap and a water trickle feed to keep the trap full of water, and by eliminating the trap also greatly increases the flow capacity and almost eliminates the risk of it getting plugged with lint. I recommend using 4 inch ABS if possible to ensure it can handle a large leak, though with some flooring systems 3" is about all you can fit in reasonably. Unless the pipe is droppingvertically down several feet before turning sideways, 2" is not going to handle a major washer flooding event.


If your plumber says this is not allowed under the sewer section of the code, have him check the appliance overflow section - where overflow drains from hot water heater, boiler, and washer/dishwasher overflow drains that are not routinely activated (as with a backwash system, for example) ARE allowed by national code to exist the house to dump direct on the ground. I don't remember the exact height it can be from ground - something like not more than 3 feet as I recall for hot water heaters and boilers due to the hot water scalding risk to someone outside at the time, but I don't believe that restriction applies to washing machines.

Answered 5 years ago by LCD




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