Ask Your Question

Angie's List Answers is the trusted spot to ask home improvement and health questions and get answers from service companies, health providers and consumers. For ratings and reviews on companies in your area, search Angie's List.

Top 30 Days Experts
Rank Leader Points*
1 kstreett 240
2 Guest_9020487 110
3 Guest_9190926 105
4 GoldenKid 100
5 ahowell 95
6 KnowledgeBase 95
7 skbloom 80
8 Guest_98024861 70
9 Guest_9311297 70
10 Guest_9400529 70

*Updates every 4 hours

Browse Projects By Category

Question DetailsAsked on 8/4/2016

Labor cost to grout exterior veneer wall

Do you have the same question? Follow this Question

1 Answer


This is listed in Landscaping - Hardscaping, but seems more properly a Masonry item if you are talking a wall - any vertical surface.

I assume you mean regrout - because the original grout is placed as the wall is placed so is not something you can do separately.

Makes some difference if brick or stone because the roughness and uneven stickout of stone make it a lot harder to get any production speed up - but generally speaking, can commonly run nfrom around the $$0.40-1.00/LF of joint (about $2.50-6.00/SF) range for brick (or equivalent joint area of stone which of course depends on stone size) for minor gouging out of deteriorated mortar and re-mortaring the joints to proper joint depth - basically a cosmetic procedure. If the mortar is seriously deteriorating so needs to be cut out to depth and replaced as a structural repair, then can commonly run $4-10/SF and even up to $20/SF with rough edge-out stone or very old brick - presumably not if veneer. Sometimes, especially if the entire wall is in bad shape, it is cheaper, when labor is considered, to just tear down and replace the entire thing - especially if not load-bearing. Ditto with stacked stone which the mortar has gone seriously south on - can be cheaper to just break out the stone (which generally can be done with not more than 5-10% stone replacement unless an unusually soft or fissile / splittable stone) and rebuild the wall from scratch.

Obviously more by commonly 20-50% if above ground level, due to the need to work from scaffolding.

These are total costs, but the mortar cost is quite small compared to the labor and equipment costs (especiall yif using carbide/diamond blades to cut into the joint) so should be in the ballpark.

Here is a link to a previous response regarding what "pointing" and "tuck pointing" is and the differences.

Also, if unfired brick (no surface glaze) or old brick, care needs to be taken not to use too "hard" a mortar - one with too much portland cement in it, because that stops moisture in the brick from evaporating through the mortar so it evaporates through the brick instead, spalling and softening and deteriorating it fairly rapidly. If in doubt, a softer mortar with less Portland cement and more lime should be used, especially on non-structural brick or weatherable stone, like a type N or O.


One thing to note - repointing the mortar would be something you would do if the mortar itself is deteriorating - if the veneer is coming off the wall, then removal and rebuilding the surface, or as a cheaper but less long-lasting fix refastening it to the wall with fasteners embedded in the mortar

Here is a previous question with answer which might help too -

Answered 3 years ago by LCD

Related Questions

Terms Of Use
Privacy Policy