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Question DetailsAsked on 7/31/2016

My deck peeled. I had rock solid on it, how do I get the stuff off that did not peel?

I bought Rock Solid followed all directions because I really wanted it to work. Started to peel immediately. I used about 5 buckets of the product very expensive. A lot of it flaked off but what is left is stubborn.

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1 Answer


Ah - if you read the fine print, though they say it is for decks as well as concrete, their info also says do not use on any surface that might have wetness from below - like is commonly the case with driveways, sidewalks, damp basements and DECKS - the latter which always soak up rain and snowmelt moisture. Since it started to peel immediately, I would say either it was not mixed properly, or your surface was damp even if it did not look like it.

I have heard that they have gotten enough complaints for that product that, with a receipt or the labels, they will refund your money - but unfortunately you got caught up in the ongoing scam that an "impenetrable" deck paint will last a long time. Unfortunately, deck boards ALWAYS get wet through the ends, sides, from runoff wicking over the bottom, and at contact points with joists - so ANY hard-surface product other than a solid jointless metal or sealed concrete surface overlay will peel - assuming it can take that weight in the first place.

What you need is complete removal and probably a good sanding too (be careful of dust inhalation if treated deck boards) or shot/sandblasting if concrete deck, then on a thoroughly DRY surface (etched or abrasive roughened if concrete) use an oil-based (meaning paint thinner or mineral spirit cleanup) penetrating stain/sealer if wood, or for a concrete deck can use epoxy or polyurea (more ultraviolet resistant generally) coatings or a concrete floor/deck paint.

To get off what is on there - wet the deck for 15 minutes or so with a spray, then use a thin but wide ice scraper or paint removal tool with a thin and tapered but not really knife-sharp edge, atttacking it on the edges of the paint areas - basically with the grain though a slight angle to the blade or attack angle can commonly work better,, and in the direction that does not dig in (depending on grain, usually moving in one direction digs in and other skates over the grain ends) to hook in under the coating and pop it off. A little judicious pounding with a plastic weighted hammer might loosen it up too - but you have to be careful not to dent the boards. If doing that, do the pounding dry, not on wet boards. Likely to need some hand scraping with a paint scraper to get the last of it off - or when you get near the end a 3M Sandblaster Clean and Strip paint removal disc can be used too - but will need belt or disc sanding afterwards to remove the swirl marks and the peeled-up end grain the scraping and popping off will cause.

You did not say if concrete "deck" - so more likely a balcony, or wood - but one thing they advertise is for garage floors, indoor concrete floors, driveways, sidewalks and decks - but they fail to say anywhere I could find that they meant CONCRETE decks, not wood, if that is what you have.

If this was a concrete deck and was THOROUGHLY dry when applied, then your problem may have been failure to properly remove all dust from it, or did not finish the job within the 25 minutes or so working time, which can affect bond because it is already starting to gel and harden so will not soak into the surface. Look up the product for web reviews - the few I saw said you had maybe 7-10 minutes to get complete surface coverage with a batch for it to soak in adequately to bond even though you could work it around after that - and that for concrete you have to roughen the surface abrasively (sandblast, shotblast, carbide or diamond disc cut, etc) not etch - that etching does not provide a pervious enough surface for it to bond to properly.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD

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