Ask Your Question

Angie's List Answers is the trusted spot to ask home improvement and health questions and get answers from service companies, health providers and consumers. For ratings and reviews on companies in your area, search Angie's List.

Top 30 Days Experts
Rank Leader Points*
1 kstreett 240
2 Guest_9020487 110
3 Guest_9190926 105
4 GoldenKid 100
5 ahowell 95
6 KnowledgeBase 95
7 skbloom 80
8 Guest_98024861 70
9 Guest_9311297 70
10 Guest_9400529 70

*Updates every 4 hours

Browse Projects By Category

Question DetailsAsked on 8/19/2016

My mobile home aluminum roof is coming apart in top center what should i do

While coating my mobile home aluminum roof my guy said the seam on the top center of roof has a gap where it has pulled apart. What is my best cheapest quickest fix?

Do you have the same question? Follow this Question

1 Answer


Sounds like you may have a double-wide (so assembled on-site into one unit from 2 or more pieces) trailer home or manufactured home. These are typically supported on the edges of the frames of each piece - so around the perimeter of course, but also along the center of the home on the "inside" part of the frames. Unless you have true concrete piers or foundations buried at least several feet into the ground, commonly the center supports are in a dry, stable environment not subject to frequent wetting or freeze-thaw, whereas the perimeter ones are (especially if unskirted) - so the outside supports tend to settle more. This results in a "breaking the back" situation, where the adjacent pieces settle at the perimeter and tilt away from the center supports, opening up a gap at the roof - usually longitudinally, but can also run crosswise to the length of the structure near the center - or at each unit joint if more than one unit long as well. Generally when this sort of settlement is happening (though sometimes slack in the siding covers this up) at the ends of the home you will also see a variable width gap or stretching/tearing in the end siding, from about zero at the frame level to widest at the roof.

Here is a link with some photos of that sort of problem - which can also, as discussed in the blog, also be due to there being no tiebars or joists at top of outer long walls pulling the top of the units together or no bolts at the ridge pulling the roof parts tightly together - either by neglect on the part of the installer, or poor design -

Solution in that case - have the units releveled to close up the gap, and then tie the tops of the rafters/trusses together with Simpson tie plates or better yet (for pulling them together the last bit) adjustable tension tie connectors. You do have to be careful not to pull the ridge together very much or you can cause wall crumpling in the unit - the relevelling has to do most of the work of pulling them together, helped out a bit by pulling the top together.

Sometimes this can be done without messing with the roof but sometimes it crumples the peak roofing, so it is best to remove the peak piece (which overlaps the joint between the units) before levelling the unit, then replacing the peak (and ridge vent if there is one).


If you have a single-wide, this would generally mean the ties or joists supporting the ceiling are coming loose, allowing the walls to move apart, resulting in pulling apart at the peak of the roof. This should be checked out to be sure there is no structural damage before repairing. Single-wides with interior hallway with a central wall down the length of the trailer can also do this if they have longitudinal supports along the centerline as well as around the perimeter - resulting in "breaking the back" just like with multi-piece double wides. Same solution as with double wides in that case - usually pretty easy to see by eyeball, and certainly with a long level, if the unit is arching the frame up in the center.

The repair if not fixing the source of the issue or if you still have a gap or tear in the ridge after relevelling would be to have a peak piece put on - a flat V-shaped ridge piece of roofing metal over the peak, gasketed around the edges and screwed to the roof to cover the gap. Looks like this (the long narrow piece) -

Your normal contractor for the relevelling would be (not an Angies List category) a company that routinely transports and installs modular and double-wide homes.

Answered 4 years ago by LCD

Related Questions

Terms Of Use
Privacy Policy