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Question DetailsAsked on 1/11/2017

Roof is good but not gutters. My contractor told while inspecting gutters that plywood is on top of flashing onroof

Roof is good but not gutters. Gutters are in bad shape so we are planning to replace the gutters. My contractor told while inspecting the gutters that plywood is on top of flashing on roof. He mentioned that flashing should be on top of the plywood but here it is in the order of flashing, plywood and then shingles. I am confused. Even roof inspector didn't mention about this issue and he said that the roof is good. i would appreciate if anyone could reply what should i do? Should i redo the whole roof even when the roof is good?

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2 Answers


Sounds like you need new flashing installed - slipped in under the existing roofing.

Here are a few previous similar questions which at least partly apply to your case - the first one pretty much exactly on target -

Here is an image of how they should layer in under the underlayment(s) and on top of the sheathing, and how the drip edge should direct any water running on top of it into the gutters, rather than behind them against the fascia as is commonly (and improperly) done - except the first image shows the dripedge on top of the ice and water shield rather than under it as it should be installed - as they show it water running down the ice and water shield would at least partly go UNDER the drip edge and probably end up saturating the edge of the sheathing and running down the fascia board:

Here is an image of a type of drip edge (called D-flashing) which can be installed after the roof is on - there are also types that do not stick in under the roof as far to avoid hitting so many roofing nails or staples, which the drip edge has to be notched for or the nails removed and then redriven after the dripedge is in (preferred solution). One type in one of the answers above is not fastened on the roof at all - nails are driven into the face just below the overhang to secure it to the fascia board or fascia trim strip, whichever you have.

in your case, with existing improperly placed dripedge, in case it ever has any water runnign on it both it and the new one should drop into the gutter, so will probably take a bit of bending of the old one to keep it out of the way of the new one but still make it work right if needed. I would try to avoid cutting it off - though of course when the next reroof is done as all the underlayment is removed the drip edges should be also, and replaced (or the new one reused if in suitable condition) in the correct location.

Depending on how the underlayment lies on your roof, and whether you have self-adhesive ice and water shield along the eave edge or not, if the latter is the case and does not peel up nicely at the edge you might have to put the new drip edge on top of the ice and water shield (and under the shingles of course) for this go-around, then do it right at reroof time.

If this has to be done, and only if you absolutely have to because the ice and watershield is thoroughly bonded, is you need to be sure the drip edge is placed in such a way that, in combination with the existing one, any water coming down the top of the ice and water shield and leaking UNDER the new drip edge will still end up in the gutter. Of course, putting roofing sealant on the uphill edge of the drip edge will help keep mnost of the water on top of it - fairly easily done with a caulk gun while lifting the shingles up a bit, before slipping in the drip edge. But they have to be sure the sealant ends up UNDER the uphill edge of the dripedge, not bonding the shingles to the dripedge or underlayment, because you do NOT want a sealant dam there between the underlayment and the shingles. One way to avoid this, if the nails are pulled form the eave shingles to allow inserting the drip edge fully in without cutting out for nails (the right way to do it) is to put in the drip edge, then overlap it by 4 inches or so on the uphill side with another strip of ice and water shield - bonding to the existing ice and water shield, and directing the water OVER the drip edge to the eave edge, where it will then be carried off over the drip edge.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD



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