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Question DetailsAsked on 1/19/2018

The gas valve is buzzing on my furnace.

Its a intertherm standing pilot gas furnace with a gravity flue pipe I guess you call it that has no inducer. and a Robertshaw gas valve that has a red lever on the gas valve to set the pilot and all. One day the thermostat called for heat and when it did the gas valve went to buzzing and vibrating and would not allow the gas to flow through to the main burner. So I went to my furnace and to get it to stop and allow gas to flow I had to push the lever in on the "on" position and after it was pushed in it quit vibrating and buzzing. But if the lever pushes back out in the on position it will go back to buzzing and not allow gas to go through so I have to push it back in. Is this a sign of a gas valve going bad?

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2 Answers


Most likely - unless you have a transformer failure putting too much voltage into it, but that would likely burn it out in short order too.

Most likely, the internal solenoid or relay or similar actuator (like a linear induced pulse actuator or such) is failing to actuate duyring the call for power.

It is also possible a bad wiring connection from the control box to the gas control valve is causing excess resistance so there is not enough mapacity at the valve to open it - could be due to a broken end connection, cracked wire, wire chafing against the furnace so is bleeding off some of the juice, etc. Rarely a bad element in the control box can also result in insufficient power getting to the gas control valve to operate it. If checking the power to the gas control valve does not indicate a problem, likely is a bad valve - they commonly last about 20 or so years before failing, usually from this type of issue or from leaking around the valve stems.

Answered 2 years ago by LCD


OH - BTW - in theory for a gas control valve it should be a self-limiting circuit - should be able to indefinitely handle the maximum available circuit amperage or have a fuse or breaker to trip it out if it starts pullling excessive juice - but that is asking for proper design, perfect manufacturing, no shoddy Chinese products, etc - so I would shut the power off to the furnace till it is fixed, because if it overheats and starts a fire in the gas control valve you could end up having a much bigger issue on your hands .... not to mention probably replacing the furnace at a minimum rther than just the valve.

Nighttime/weekend service charges are typically 50-100% more than regular, and those type valves are commonly about $100-200 billout rate, plus typically minimum service charge or a bit more maybe with testing after installation, so labor probably about $150-300 or maybe a touch more at overtime rates.

When you call the Heating and A/C company (your Search the List category for this type repair) have the make and model of the furnace off the nameplate at hand, and if at all possible the mke and model of the gas control valve off the valve itself too, so he can bring the right one with him.

Answered 2 years ago by LCD

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