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Question DetailsAsked on 3/30/2014

What would cause 1995 Chevy blazer to run for 20 minutes, then stop and not start again? Installed new fuel pump.

Car has been to mechanic and they say they can't find problem. Blazer has 125,347 miles on it.

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3 Answers

Voted Best Answer

Is this relative to engine temperature?

For example, can you start the car cold, it will warm for 20 minutes, and shut off....or....can it already be warm, run for 20 minutes and shut off?

Is it throwing any MIL codes?

While not a car, my Motorcycle (also fuel injected) would run for a little bit and shut off. The issue was the fuel pump body was not machined correctly and had a failing bearing. As the pump would heat up, the pump would expand with heat and sieze against itself after beginning to rub.

Depending on the pump, that could be the cause.

Answered 6 years ago by WoWHomeSolutions


Hi, has anyone checked the distributor module on this car ?, that is the black flat part laying in the distributor housing, and it has 3 pin on one side and 2 on the other, this get hot and cut out the ignition, also the distributor pick up could be loosing is signal. the vehicle does not stall as you driving right, it just doesn't start after you shut of the ignition right ? good luck.

Answered 6 years ago by uniqueauto


HOW does it die - spit and sputter and gasp like out of gas, totally cut in and out for a few seconds then die, or just flat stop like the elecricity was shut off ? You can answer back using the Answer This Question link right below your question.

I would initially go with uniqueauto on this - sounds like some wiring heating up and breaking the circuit due to a corroded or loose connector or bad wire. I don't have a manual that covers the 95 Blazer, but possibly if the system shuts down when the MAF sensor detects an oxygen level way out of bounds, it might be that very expensive sensor starts misreading, or the computerized fuel system is failing to regulate properly once it is fully up to temp, though 20 minutes sounds a bit long for that to occur, by a factor of maybe 2 or 3 or so.

Other things I see that it could be are a vapor lock because a portion of the fuel line is overheating from proximity to the exhaust, exhaust heat is causing a metal fuel line connection to open up enough that it starts sucking air, bad PCV valve or PCV valve backpressure sensor, overheating of an electronic component that then cuts out, fuel pump freezing up due to overheating of bad bearing, coil or coil lead wire opening up or shorting out at high temp. I have had this one happen to me - started staggering while driving, then died, but would start up and run again fine after 10 minutes or so, then die in 5 minutes or so again. Got home, tried diagnosing in the drive, could not find it. Went back out after dinner to start diagnosing by changing items out, when I started it up (was dark by then) was able to see blue sparking from a short from insulated coil cap to nearby carb. Have also had coil and plug lead wires do this as they get old - start throwing sparks to nearby metal after they heat up, causing all or just one cylinder failure. I have also had one of the nastiest to find problems - the bang your head against the wall type - where a fuse or breaker looks good and works at startup but cuts out when the engine compartment is up to full temp.

Another item that caused this problem on our Durango - don't know if your tank has similar setup. There is a vapor canister on the air pollution control system with a sensor - if it gets filled with liquid from tank overfilling or condensation, or otherwise misreads, the sensor signal causes the engine to shut down - sometimes without an error code.

Things I doubt it is since it consistently runs OK 20 minutes rather than the usual 1 or 2 for these type problems - fuel pump suction side leak, fuel pressure regulator, fuel inlet screen, fuel filter - all these could cause it to die like this but usually pretty much right off, not after an extended period.

This is a tough one - what I would do to troubleshoot it would be obviously first put the code reader on it to see if it is showing an error code, and how many misfires it is registering. Then I would let it run till it dies while watching it continuously, with fuel pressure gage connected and volt ohm meter on the fuel pump power lead to see whether the pressure drops or power to pump cuts out before or after the car dies. This would also show any gradual pressure drop from a fuel line filter or inlet screen blockage or air leak. If that did not find it, WITHOUT touching the key or anything, I would then do a full circuit trace to see if power has cut out anywhere that it should be one with the key in the run position.

One other very fluky item to check is operation of the - oh, I forget what it is called - the impact switch that triggers the airbags and shuts off the fuel flow in the event of accident. Maybe that is cuttingout when engine gets hot.

Answered 6 years ago by LCD


Thanks to all for the quick response to my question. All of you have given me a few leads to consider And I appreciate it. This is my son's car. The local garage said the blazer only did it one time for them...hence the replacement of the fuel pump. The car starts then after 15-20 minutes, it starts to miss and stalls out. The starter turns over but the car will not restart until after it sits for another 30-44 minutes Or even longer. I will definitely look into your suggestions as we will be working on it this week and I will post what we find. thanks again.

Answered 6 years ago by Guest_9706434

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