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Question DetailsAsked on 7/12/2016

What is the expertise level for diy engineered wood floors?

I want to put engineered wood floor in a bedroom. What is the difficulty level for a diy project?

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1 Answer


For simple basically rectangular shaped room with one of flooring (so no need to form new interlocks on cut ends), with a snap-joint laminate or engineered wood pre-finished product probably a 4-5 on scale of one to ten - tougher than painting, easier than installing a door with frame from scratch, about same or a bit easier than doing trim around openings. If using glued type, avoid letting glue set up on hjoints before cleanup and you have over half the battle won.

Watch a manufacturer and Youtube video or two, read manufacturer instructions, especially on acclimating to the room it will be installed in, expansion gap spacing around the edge so it does not expand and bow up, glue type and cleanup of joints IMMEDIATELY after gluing if glued type, and on type of padding it is supposed to lie on (and vapor barrier under padding if on concrete slab on grade or basement slab). Not much tougher than putting together a lego project with the kids - though unless you are big on using a hand saw and miter box for cuts, really nice to have a power cutoff saw like a table miter saw or a radial saw or such for the cuts, because almost every row will have an end cut, which then becomes the starter piece for the next row - so you are talking as many cutoffs as you will have rows of flooring, plus a few coping saw or partial end cuts to jog around things. And getting the end cuts square help avoid visible gaps around the edges, so hand cutting is really not the best way to go unless you have quite thick baseboards to conceal any off-square end cuts.

Hint - don't try skimping and not getting the right fit hammer block to drive the joints together - you can use plain block of wood but without the special shape to fit on the snap-joint you really risk breaking the joints here and there. And get a weighted (the moving internal impact weight) plastic or white rubber hammer to drive the block - MUCH easier on the arms and easier control than a claw hammer, plus you don't claw into your leg/knee. I use about a 2-3 pounder for this. Do NOT use black rubber hammer - toss it on the flooring and you have a black scuff mark - the orange plastic ones work quite nice, for about $15 - plus matching shape driving block (where you buy the flooring) another $10 or so.

Google this search phrase for lots of other opioions, comments by people who have done it, and Youtube videos.

Answered 4 years ago by LCD

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