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Question DetailsAsked on 6/10/2016

What exterior products can handle golf balls? I am interested in replacing damaged siding with a different product.

We currently live on a golf course and our house will always get hit! I need to replace the siding but do not see the sense in replacing the siding with the same product to just be damaged over and over again. I need to find a product that will not crack or show damage by a hit. Our house has a brick front and wide 6 in beaded siding on the remaining 3 sides. We did install brick to grade around the entire house when building. Can the siding be removed & the "brick to grade" be continued up? I realize windows would have to be built out...I am just wondering if the brick to grade actually gives you a real brick ledge to build on...? also interested in alternatives like stone veneer...any suggestions?

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3 Answers


Even brick edges and corners can break off when hit by a golfball (especially if at relatively close range). A solid stone facing would be expected to suffer generally less damage but occasionally a protruding corner or thin edge could break off, but I certainly would not count on a glued-on brick or stone veneer surviving well - I would expect pieces to pop off from time to time, and I am pretty sure all manufacturers would recommend against using their product in that application. Ditto to the glued-on plastic/fiberglass "fake brick or stone" veneers - I would expect them to crack up in pretty quick order.

Solid concrete of course would be good - either cast-in-place wall (not likely as a retrofit) or panels. Concrete lap siding like HardiPlank is pretty resistant but I suppose an occasional piece might split or crack off if hit just right by a close-in shot (if that is possible).

When you say "not show damage by a hit" if you are including visible round marks in the finish as "damage", then painted surfaces are ptetty much out - so stone or brick or concrete would be your only normal remedies.

There are several products out there that advertise "increased" resistance to golf ball damage - heavy gauge steel siding (sheet or shingle though would be noisy when balls hit), Louisiana Pacific Smart Siding and Everlast composite siding among others - you could check out their ads. Certainly a foam-core or foam-backed vinyl or thin metal siding would be expected to be "more" resistant to denting and probably pretty much immune to punch-through, but I would not expect ANY plastic or thin metal siding product to not show dimpling from the impacts.

And of course, netting hung from trees or poles in front of the house works, as well as full-wall metal architectural louvers or screening designed to handle hail which can be mounted on the house - though would give an ultra-modern look to it, a far cry from typical brick appearance.

One other alternative, though pricey to buy full-height ones that would give immediate protection, are evergreen trees of suitable height to protect what areas you need to.

Brick-to-grade almost always means the brick is adhered directly to the foundation, without a firm foundation directly under the brick - plus it sits tucked in under the siding mostly so does not provide a firm support surface to build on up with full-depth brick, which would stick out from the lower brick a bit because of the thickness of the sheathing on the wall - though half-thickness brick might work. However, it should not be hard to put in a ledger strip (typically a piece of metal channel or Z-stock) fastened to the foundation to rest the brick wall on - might mean taking off a row o two of the existing brick-to-grade. I would NOT rest additional brick directly on top of the brick-to-grade - it is not at all likely to be designed to carry more than its own weight - it typically is just stuck to the wall with no foundation under it which would be necessary to carry any weight from a wall above.

If going with a facade that is fastened directly to the wood framing of the wall or to a bolted-on sill piece bolted to the concrete foundation, other than flashing and waterproofing between it and the brick-to-grade there would be no special provisions needed there with respect to the existing brick.

If you live "on" the golf course then there is likely a caveat in the title against any liability by the course for golfball damage. If not, and your property is "private property" rather than owned by the golf course and you are not happy about this situation, you could talk to an attorney about filing a damage claim with the golf course owners to either continually repair your house damage, or put on a new surface at their cost that will not show golfball damage, because golfballs leaving the course and hitting your house on your private property (absent a title clause covering that situation) would be a form of trespass. Ditto to golfball protective screening for windows.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD


PS - impact-resistant (heavy-build) concrete stucco or gunite would perform similarly to concrete and would be another possibility, though would show ball marks on the paint.

Also, some EIFS (External Insulated Foam System - basically a stucco over foam siding) manufacturers claim high impact resistance for their wall systems - but read up first on EIFS wall failures and rot issues - I would never recommend such a system unless installed as a "double-wall" system, where there is deliberate ventilation between the EIFS layers and the housewrap/sheathing layer.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD


In rereading my response after it posted, I may have been overly pessimistic sounding on brick and concrete panel or lap siding like Hardiplank - certainly in general they should take occasional hits with golfballs fairly well - though of course the closer-in and more direct (line-drive as opposed to high looper) the shot the more risk of damage. While you can get some cracking of brick and the concrete panel products (especially if it hits corners), certainly the damage show would be nothing like that on vinyl, aluminum, or thin steel (all of which would be expected to dimple badly, and in the case of vinyl crack too and sometimes hole thorough) - more commonly, round markings would be the extent of the damage.

Wood-based products like beadboard or fiberboard would be expected to show some splintering and surface cracking over time, which would accelerate due to easier moisture intrusion. True plywood like T1-11 and particle board would certainly show marks on the paint, and little dimples at time leading to splintering, though unless high energy shots (like direct misses right behind a driving range net) would not likely show rapid deterioration from stray ball impacts.

Of course, any surface getting frequent impacts, especially if from a driving range or such where the shots are high-energy when they hit the wall, would be expected to cause progressive damage except on quite heavy-gauge (heavier than normal siding) sidings, or solid concrete panels or cast walls.

If you google a Search phrase like - golf ball resistant siding - you can see some articles and ads and videos on the subject with different producrts advertising their resistance. The ads are commonly about resistance to hail rather than golfballs though, so remember golfballs are commonly going to be hitting within 45 degrees of perpendicular to the wall unless at the furthest extent of their flight on a high hit so will impart a goodly portion of their energy to it, whereas hail will typically hit at siognificantly less than 45 degree angle of a wall so will tend to glance off more than directly hit it, so golfball hits would be expected to be significantly more destructive in general than the same size hail (1.6 inch or golfball size is about the upper limit for "normal" versus "extremely rare event" hail size).

Answered 3 years ago by LCD

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