Ask Your Question

Angie's List Answers is the trusted spot to ask home improvement and health questions and get answers from service companies, health providers and consumers. For ratings and reviews on companies in your area, search Angie's List.

Top 30 Days Experts
Rank Leader Points*
1 kstreett 240
2 Guest_9020487 110
3 Guest_9190926 105
4 GoldenKid 100
5 ahowell 95
6 KnowledgeBase 95
7 skbloom 80
8 Guest_98024861 70
9 Guest_9311297 70
10 Guest_9400529 70

*Updates every 4 hours

Browse Projects By Category

Question DetailsAsked on 2/28/2014

What is a fair estimate for installing a 20ft snow and ice guard in the valley portion of my roof?

Single level home, not a steep roof. Plan to replace the surrounding shingles too. (Certain Teed type)

Do you have the same question? Follow this Question

2 Answers

Voted Best Answer

1) If you mean a fence or snow tabs to prevent snow from sliding off the valley onto the ground, PLEASE don't do this - intentionally causing the snow to sit on your roof when it wants to slide off is just inviting ice damming and water damage, and the valley is the worst place to do this. Cost probably about $10-15/LF depending on if plastic or metal (more if multiple bar type, especially if brass or stainless steel), to as low as $3-5/LF for glue-on plastic ones on metal roofing.

2) If you mean retrofitting ice and water shield in a valley that does not have one now, then you are talking about stripping the shingles off the valley, putting down ice and water shield, preferably metal sheet valley flashing, then new shingles.

3) Of course, depends on specific roof configuration and such, but if I were to bid on a job like this I think I would probably assume $100 disposal cost plus 2 men for a day, to be on the safe side. Materials - probably 6 foot width with shingle splices x 20 foot valley length, so 120 SF - that is $150-300 Certainteed Landmark shingles depending on (3 tab to random architectural $20 flashing, $100 ice and water shield, say $50 miscellaneous materials and supplies - so probably about $480-$800 labor, $100 disposal, $350-520 materials with markup = $930-1420 total, or about $7.75-11.85/SF - pretty much on the $10/SF my initial gut feeling was before I decided I had better figure this small a job a bit closer to get a good number.

4) Of course, your actual bid prices could vary 25% above or below that range, but I would expect responsive bids from bidders you would actually want working on your house will cluster around $10/SF. Some may figure less than 120SF is necessary, but labor cost will probably not drop a lot. However, a hotshot roofer who jumps in and really gets down to business right off without messing around with setup time could cut the labor time in half, which would bring your price down closer to the normal $3-5/SF range for full-size roofing jobs.

Answered 6 years ago by LCD


Thank you LCD! #2 of your answer is what is planned and your pricing explained in #3 is much appreciated. I received a quote for $1,200 and I was going to proceed with that, however, I noticed that I would also need another valley done (same specs for the first). So, of course I knew that there was a "buffer" built into the first quote, I asked for a revised quote and they came back with a quote of $2,000 for doing both 20ft valleys. I thanked them and happily agreed to moving forward with the project.

Answered 6 years ago by Guest_98973876


Sounds like they estimate about like I do - and the reduction per valley for the larger job, which should guarantee a full days work (which they like), works in your favor. Glad I could help, and thnk you VERY much for the feedback - it is SO nice when we contributors hear back for we know which swuggestions were helpful or matched the case, and whether our ballpark cost estimates were comparable to bids received or not. Sort of a quality control measure for us to use in future contributions.

I would really appreciate it is you could let us know what the contractor says the actual source of the problem was when they tear into it - lack of ice and water shield, lack of or too narrow a valley flashing, improper underlayment or valley flashing lap direction, rusted valley flashing, improper shingle weave, or whatever it may have been.

Oh - and don't be too disappointed if the color match is poor with the new shingles - just part of the game. Colors available change year to year, and even significantly (some people wouldsay dramatically) between different batches of the coloring agent, so even shingles out of identical color number used on the same job will be noticeably different unless the Lot Number (meaning the exact production run for that batch on that day) is identical. That is why good practice calls for pre-shuffling the shingles from at least 3 bundles before starting to lay them, and continuing to shuffle as new bundles are opened up.

Answered 6 years ago by LCD

Related Questions

Terms Of Use
Privacy Policy