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Question DetailsAsked on 1/3/2016

Whether the fascia board should be flush along the roof.

New homeowner here. Had a rotting fascia board on my 2 story colonial, and had it replaced. The fascia board to be replaced was on the far end, on the edge. The end of the fascia curves away from the house, creating a 3/4, 1" gap between the house and the end of the board. That shouldn't happen, right?
As an aside, after finishing the job, the joker who did it (for a legit local riffing company) said I had a "tiny" leak from a small hole in my gutters, and I should replace them. That too seems dead wrong to me, and that the small hole could be easily patched.

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2 Answers


Not completely understanding the gap issue, In general no gap should be tollerated as it can lead to yellow jackets (insect) penitration into soffit area and more importantly water. As a gutter contractor must say most small holes in aluminum gutters are endcap or joint (miter) leaks. They can be sealed with gutter sealant, mostly spray variety (big box menards etc) if pre cleaned before application. If it is a small hole in steel gutter (check with handy magnet off refrig door) whether they can be sealed with little long term negatives should be determined by site inspection. Either you or a handyman can be hired.

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Answered 4 years ago by jccasper


Certainly, as other comment said - should be pulled up tight to the rafters. Maybe the rafter cutoff was not straight, the board was warped, or the rafter tails are rotten so he fastened to them but they pulled right out. Either eay, he should have discussed it with you if there was a problem - and either solved the problem or, in the case of short tails, finish nailed in a pre-drilled scrap of same-sized materials, then predrilled for an extra-long screw to go through the filler piece into the rafter itself.

On the gutter - unless generally corroded so more leaks will pop up shortly, silicone caulk or permatex sealant (be careful about push-though because it makes a mess when smeared on the outside of the gutter) can fill a small hole. Works best if it goes THROUGH the hole and is mushroomed a bit on the outside so it acts as a plug. For little bit larger holes a pop rivet works well - predrill hole in gutter, smear silicone caulk around the contact side of the rivet before putting in, pop into place, smear caulk into the center hole. Obviously, for looks, put the bad side of the rivet on the inside of the gutter. For larger holes - drill out round and put in a plastic hole plug silicone caulked in - the type of plug used to fill body panel holes in cars, available in 1/4" size increments at auto supply stores. Easily found in black, less common in white, but hold paint moderately well if you paint before installing so there is no silicone on it.

Answered 4 years ago by LCD

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