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Question DetailsAsked on 3/20/2018

Who can install a window where the wall AC is located?

I hate the wall AC. No matter how hard I try to cover it up for the winter, it still leaks air. Plus the couple times we run it in the summer it is so loud we have to turn it off when we're watching TV. The inside wall is plaster. The outside is stucco.

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3 Answers


Uh. Try a window installations company in your area.

Answered 2 years ago by the new window man


The air leak is easy to fix - put a caulked-under firring strip (preferably treated wood) all around the opening, then during winter put a cover (purchased cover, or heavy plastic tarp cut to fit) over the A/C and the firring strips, doubled thickness at the strips to avoid wind tearing, and screw a second firring or 1/2-3/4" thick trim strip over the top - clamping the cover between the two pieces of strip. Be sure it is padded at the conditioner to prevent wind tearing or punch-through, and snug and shaped so it drains and does not pool water. There are commercial water and air-tight covers designed for common conditioner sizes.

You will need a screw-on dripedge flashing or rain hood above the strip to prevent it becoming a water ledge - mount to wall with screws, and at first installation caulk at the top of the interface with the wall but before putting on the flashing/drip edge put on a double thickness layer of saran wrap as a bond-breaker, so it can be removed and replaced to put the cover on and off. With care, a larger size curved rain hood or awning type cover or little shed roof could be permanently mounted once, leaving just enough clearance underneath the front edge to get a screwdriver in to remove and replace the top mounting flashing for the cover, while still stopping rain from getting on top of the firring strip and causing rot. Firring/mounting strips of course need to be primed and painted to survive the weather.

If you have lap siding, the "permanent" or base firring strip has to be thick enough and cut to match the siding profile, so it gives a flat mounting surface for the cover and overlying retaining trim strip. And the bottom piece of the base strip should be notched on the back and not caulked at those points, to allow drainage in case any water gets inside the firring strips or the cover leaks.


Anyway - to do a window, Window installation company as New Window Man says. If you can't find a company interested in just one window, then a small Remodeling General Contractor or Handyman - but work quality and appearance will depend on their experience.

FAR easier to make sure the window is at least as large as the existing wall opening so you don't have interior finish and exterior wall repair to do after the installation.

And of course keeping it within the same stud bay as the conditioner sits in avoids any significant carpentry work - generally going to be cheapest to push the window rough opening size to the stud spacing in that bay, taller if desired - then all the installation work needed is filler header and sill support 2x's inset inside the existing studs (no stud cutting needed), putting in the water barrier in the rough opening and tying it into the wall water barrier, then installing the window and its flashing and water seals and any trim or brickmold as applicable - as close to a "drop-in" as possible.

Cost depends on your specific situation of course, but commonly around $600-1000 for small to normal kitchen size window of normal energy efficiency - add up to another $250-500 for higher efficiency windows of normal roughly 24x36" or 30x30" size. Go larger so a stud has to be cut and a structural header put in and you are probably into the above plus another $250-500 depending on situation.

Answered 2 years ago by LCD


Hello! When I installed the new windows, I used the services of companies that make windows to order, and then they install them. It's the windows replacement company from Frankly speaking, this method is the most convenient and not expensive. I recommend!

Answered 2 years ago by kutau

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