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Question DetailsAsked on 11/1/2016

ballpark price of a partial permanent roof 16x16 feet with a finished ceiling and two high hat lights ?

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I am assuming this is a deck connected to the house - cost probably about $5-10/SF higher if you mean a free-standing roof over a detached deck.

While you can sometimes get a plain-jane roof (no underside finish or lighting) extension cheaper in low-cost areas (as low as about $15/SF), typically about $25-30 will get you a simple shed roof (simple sloping roof) with pained underside or cheap panelling underneath with maybe a light or two. Higher-end, or fully finished underside like tongue and groove wood with ceiling lighting like it sounds you are talking about typically more like $30-50/SF depending on foundation and support needs and whether you include perimeter posts which could then be used to support screening later on.

Be careful on the roof extension (assuming this is on a side where existing roof slope down over the deck), especially if in snow area, that the water runoff has full continuity (including the ice and water shield) from existing to new roof, and that the meeting point does not cause ice damming. This is a VERY common issue with extension or porch roofs in cold areas, because runoff from the house roof ( from rain on cold roof or from snowmelt) may be liquid over the warmer house, but then immediately freeze on the colder (freezing air-cooled) porch roof - causing ice damming water infiltration. (Basically what would be icicling or eave edge ice damming on the main house roof becomes ice buildup and ice damming on the cold porch roof.

If this is a porch roof coming off the gable end of the house (so not connecting to or getting runoff from existing roof) then be careful about the connection and flashing to the house to avoid infiltration at the house or rotting the siding due to damp connection ledger board - or you can step it off from the house a tad with metal brackets if you want so the house runoff down the siding continues as before down to the ground, though that does prevent (or make more difficult) building any sort of storage bins or such against the house, and makes that wall damp in wet conditions.

Also - pay attention to slope both from drainage and front edge headroom aspects. Obviously you need adequate slope to drain (flat roofs are a maintenance hassle), and in snow/freezing areas it is a very bad idea to have the porch roof at a flatter angle than the house roof - makes for snow and ice damming. However, commonly (especially on deeper porches or decks) you get into a problem getting proper slope without making the front edge of the porch roof too low for proper headroom at the front of the deck, or making it feel like a cave because of the low roof - so you sometimes have to get creative buy offsetting the porch roof higher on the uphill side (meaning you have a weather gap at the house and house keeps original gutters), or you have to go with an A-frame roof that sheds to the sides rather than a shed roof.

Also - if guttering the front edge (which may or may not be desired, or may be needed due to porch foundation type or due to ground slope towards the house foundation) remember you have a larger roof area per running foot of gutter, so you may need a larger or more sloped gutter on the porch roof than exists now on the house roof.

Here are two related links to a similar prior questions with answers that might be of interest too -

Contractor for this type of work would normally be a Deck and Porch contractor - or some roofing companies that also do structural framing for new roofs. Probably quite a bit too large a job for a Handyman or independent carpenter.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD

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