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Question DetailsAsked on 12/2/2017

can the freezer door switch be bad even if the light works.Ice maker is not getting water. new valve & ice maker

My ice maker quit working. Bought new one. It cycles but no water to it. Replaced water inlet valve. still no water to the ice maker. I can put water in ice maker manually and it freezes and ejects. Fill tube not frozen. light works in freezer when door is opened. Since the light switch also tells the ice maker it can operate an the light still work but the leg of the switch that controls the ice maker be bad.

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OK - let's do a bit of diagnosis.

First, it does not fill - so the fill tube is blocked, fill valve on reefer is not working, the fill tube from the water source to the reefer is pinches off, or a shutoff on the fill ine from the water source is turned off or corroded to the point of not letting water through.

You put water in the ice cube tray and it makes ice and ejects it, so the icemaker is not the problem. You did not say if the cold water and ice dispensers work on the outside of the door - if the ice maker ejects ice into the holding bin in the door but ice does not come out of the dispenser, then the microswitch on the door is failed or a wire is broken - commonly where the wire passes between door and freezer.

Ditto if you had water supply to the reefer but no cold water came out at the door. i am presuming you have no water there since noe is getting to the ice maker. If you DO have cold water at the door, that really narrows down the problem, because that would mean the water supply and tubing is good. IF that is the case - you do have water at the door dispenser - then the problem has to be a blocked tube to the icemaker (unlikely) or more likely disconnected or bad wiring from the icemaker to the water inleet valve on the back of the reefer, or the inlet valve relay/soldnoid is not working. Would have to run a continuity check for wiring problem, and a function test on the relay and valve to find the source of the problem if that is the case.

Otherwise, I would track the water flow - starting at whichever end is easiest for you. Items to do to check that - listing from source end to reefer- working from one to the next in order (or reverse order) till you find where the flow is not getting through:

1) check water supply valve for the supply tubing/hose to the reefer - was it turned off at some time for maintenance or replacement (of reefer or for under-sink maintenance maybe to get the supply tubing out of the way for other work) and never turned back on

2) turn off the shutoff valve (usually under the sink but sometimes on a pipe in basement under reefer, rarely elsewhere) to the supply tube or hose to the reefer, disconnect the tubing (usually a threaded nut on a compression fitting - don't lose the washer inside the nut if there is one) and, with a pan or bucket ready, gently open the valve and see if water comes out free flowing. If so, you have water there and valve is good.

3) turn of supply valve, then disconnect supply tubing on back of reefer and put end in a bucket or such (may take 2 people or tape tubing so it does not move around and water the kitchen) then turn the supply valve on to see if water comes out of the tubing - if not, then the tubing is blocked or seriously kinked. Kinking sometimes happens if tubing is run exposes through back of cabinets because it got hit by something being put away or by a slide-out bin hitting it, or sometimes if new cabinets or range are put in and sit on it or kink it.

4) next (depending on access to outlet of fill valve - may have to connect a piece of hose or tubing) either test the fill valve with the hose to the icemaker off, or remove icemaker hose and blow thorugh it to be sure it is clear, then reconnect at fill valve end and test the fill valve to see if water comes out. (Depending on freezer operation, may require jumpering power to the valve relay to power it to open). If water does not come through the valve then either the valve is bad (but you replaced it), or the relay/solenoid operating it is bad (or there is a wiring continuity problem). Check to be sure the tubing from fill valve to icemaker is not kinked or frozen up.

5) all that is left if those are good isa blockage in the icemaker itself.

6) for the in-reefer parts of the system - another common event, though the above tests should identify this as a problem is that is the case, is the system is froen up sonewhere the line. If you turn off reefer and defrost the frezer well (good time to clean reefer / freezer inside and to clean the evaporator coil and fan and compressor too, at same time) and it then works after that (fills ice cube tray itself), then something was frozen up.

7) you mentioned something about light switch affecting it - some reefers do power the ice cube maker through the light circuit, so if the light is on (indicating door open) it will not eject the ice onto the floor - but you said if you fill the tray it cycles and ejects ice properly, so it sounds like neither that nor the tray-full switch (which prevents making more ice if the ice cube holding bin in the door is full) appear to be the problem.

8) with electronic control reefer, could be a control board problem - hard to diagnose yourself unless you have a volt-ohm meter to check which circuit legs are not live when they should be

If this did not help or you are not up to doing these checks, then my thousand-mile diagnositc ability is at an end, and you need an Appliance Repair - Large tech to check it out. Should not be a major issue

Answered 3 years ago by LCD

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