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Question DetailsAsked on 11/8/2016

can you slow down the water flow from a waster

new washer pumps faster and over flows tub drain

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2 Answers


Checked with my Appliance go-to guy, and they have not heard of any manufacturer making a part to reduce the pumpout capacity so it takes longer to pump out the water. But you could contact customer service for your manufacturer and ask - but I doubt they will suggest anything other than going to a larger drain pipe.

Some people suggest putting an adapter on the outlet from the washer or cut into the hose itself, reducing the pipe size going into the discharge hose from 1 inch to 3/4 inch or 3/4 to 1/2 inch diameter as applicable - though that does have the two downsides that it makes the pump and motor work harder so might wear out faster, and may cause pump cavitation which would eat it up faster, and also forms a constriction that may well promote accumulation of lint blockages. It also increases the pressure in the drain system, so while it should not "cause" a failure, as hoses and fittings get older it might leak internally sooner than it would otherwise.

Another possible solution, depending on your setup, is running the discharge hoses to a higher elevation to the discharge point - extending the discharge drain pipe elevation to suit. Just running the discharge hose higher (with an extended hose) but then goosenecking and coming back down into the existing drain point would not help because the suction from the water flowing down in the downward run would compensate for the higher elevation - you need it to discharge into open air (the open drain pipe) at a significantly higher elevation. Not so high that it is above the rated discharge elevation for the machine (find that in installation instructions in owner's manual - commonly limited to about 6-8 feet)). And of course would mean a new hose to reach that far. Plumber would be your Search the List category for this type of work if not DIY'ing. Technically, per commonly used building codes, the standpipe has to be 30" above the outlet of the trap and 30-48" above floor height, so if going higher than that I would make the extension easily removeable (maybe threaded connections to existing drain and as extended standpipe and surface-fastened to wall with clamps) so come sale time it can easily be removed if needed/desired by the buyer. One significant issue with higher setting - if it overflows at a higher level, it will drown out the washer. Also, it makes it clear to a buyer that your drain cannot handle a high-capacity output washer,, which could be a negative or become a contingency they want fixed before closing.

The "right" way to solve this is to increase the drain capacity. If the drain riser pipe is a 2" or larger drain properly installed 30 inches or more above the same-sized trap in the riser it feeds into, then it could be it just needs a thorough brushing (not snaking - that does not clear the lint pack well) to remove the buildup of lint that you get from washing machines. The brush that is used looks like a smaller chimney brush, on a flexible wire rod that can be chucked in an electric drill motor. Snake first to clear any significant blockage, then brush, pulling out frequently as you work down in to clear the buildup off the brush so brush does not get stuck in the pipe. The "brush" is not actually what you would call a normal brush - more like a priockly pear cactus, with relatively few bristles, like this - be sure you get right diameter for your pipe (should be 1/4" - 1/2" larger than pipe ID) -

If the riser pipe is 1-1/2" diameter, that is old-school - modern machines can overflow that, so the right solution is to change that out down to the 3" or 4" DWV pipe it runs into - using 2" or larger pipe.

Also - many older (normally 1-1/2") risers come into a plain Tee in the DWV line - so the water and lint has to make a 90 degree turn at that point. IF a 1-1/2 or 2" line coming into a 4 inch line probably not an issue, but can be with 2" into 3" if the 3" main line is horizontal at that point, not steeply sloping. Better to use a sweep wye if possible, so the water continues moving along into the DWV line at full speed, with less resistance. Here is what a straight or bull Tee (not generally good for DWV use), a normal sanitary Tee, and a sweep Tee looks like - working from poor to best solution (the washer would be entering the main line from the "Tee" side) -

Also, the more drop from the washer drain to the main DWV line the better - sometimes it is possible to drop it further down in the wall another story or into the basement and pick up another DWV line to put it into.

Try cleaning the drain line first - then consider the other alternatives in conjunction with your plumber, or if DIY'ing it tracing the lines and checking out how it is plumber and can possiblyi be replumbed.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD



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Answered 3 years ago by Member Services

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