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Question DetailsAsked on 9/3/2013

how can I tell if I need a gas dryer or an electric dryer

I have a 220 V outlet and I think a gas line that is capped off but no has no shut off valve in the laundry room

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1 Answer


It is common to cap the gas line if an electric dryer or range is put in, because the valves leak as they get older, so a fire risk - I did that behind my range and dryer. Also leaves more room to shove the appliance around to where you want it. You would need to put in a new gas shutoff valve - only about $25-35 parts, but would cost about $75-150 for the minimum visit service charge for the plumber. If you do choose gas, I would arrange for simultaneous annual cleaning and servicing for your gas water heater and furnace at the same time (if you have gas utilities), to avoid almost all the labor charge - takes about 5 minutes to install shutoff valve.
If you have both gas supply and electric supply as it appears, then you have your choice. Obviously, it looks like the prior owner used electric, so presumably that works. The gas presumably would too - no reason it would not if you have gas appliances elsewhere in the house, like furnace or hot water heater or range. I presume your gas is natural gas (outside gas meter mounted on wall of house, meter reads in cubic feet of gas, and no propane tank sitting outside anywhere). The cost difference between gas and elecric dryers is generally less than $100 for the same model (gas is more expensive), gas dryers tend to need more frequendt and more expensive maintenance and not last as long as a unit, but in most parts of the country gas is a cheaper fuel, so there is a tradeoff. You gas and electric company usually has tables online showing the annual cost of operation, and each appliance has a yellow energy rating tag showing the estimated annual cost of operation - you have to check your total cost per cubic foot and cost per kilowatt-hour from your bills (including additions and surcharges related to consumption, but not flat monthly fees) and pro-rate the yellow tags to those rates to figure your actuall estimated operting cost per year for each. Personally, we went with electric strictly from a safety standpoint despite very high electric rates in our area - both from a lint buildup fire safety standpoint, and because we are in a high earthquake zone, so broken gas connections are a distinct concern.

Answered 6 years ago by LCD

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