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Question DetailsAsked on 11/25/2014

how much should it cost to remove a wall that is non load baring?

I was told we could save $1500 by knocking out the wall itself but I cannot get an estimate of how much it would be to repatch it with the dry wall and everything. The wall is 6 ft tall, 8.5 ft wide. There MAY be ductwork inside but we are not sure yet. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

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You will find links to 5 or so basically identical questions right below this answer - and more links to more on the same subject right under them. I would advise paying attention to the parts where I talked about non-load bearing walls actually bearing some weight from overlying floors due to their natural tendency to sagging in the middle (whereas the walls are built level) so they can be preventing natural sagging of joists or trusses if the wall runs perpendicular to them.


Also, in may areas to geat a building permit for wall removal you are required to have a structural engineer check it and provide demolition/reconstruction plans to be able to geet a permit.


Certainly, checking for plumbing and electrical (both line and low voltage) and ducts BEFORE getting a contractor on board would be a good idea. Presumably since you think this is non-load bearing, it is likely to also be uninsulated (could check at an outlet) so a few small inspection holes and a rented lighted borehole inspection scope of camera (camera is worth the extra $10-20 rental) might then be a very good idea.


I have seen a number of jobs over the years where they got a contractor and started demolition only to find unexpected utilities or supporting beams or columns during the tearout, and had to reverse course AND pay the contractor his expenses for that part of the job and the repair, PLUS negotiate a termination fee which is commonly at least the remainder of the profit he planned on, if not a lot more because his committed crew and subs are without work for some days.

Answered 5 years ago by LCD




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