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Question DetailsAsked on 5/14/2017

how much does it cost to replace a skylight with shingles on a roof

Remove a 24 × 48 inch skylight and replace with much money would it cost

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1 Answer


Depends on particular installation of course, but for normal run of the mill skylight probably about in this ballpark, and assuming you mean wood or asphalt shingles (tile or metal probably about $100-200 additional to what is below):

1) $200-500 on the interior depending on whether there is a light box/light tube to be removed - this amount is for the drywalling/plastering etc and interior finishing to patch over the previous skylight "hole" in the ceiling. Course, if you choose to DIY that part (though ceilings are hard to get to match well) that could reduce that part of the cost.

2) Remove skylight (as part of the overall job) and dispose of - probably about $100

3) Cover over the hole with plywood sheathing of matching thickness - $50-200 depending on whether they just slap a 2x4' sheet on and call it good, or do as I would and as NRCA manual calls for and enlarge the repair piece to 4x4' so it bridges three rafters (with standard rafter spacing of 2') - this greatly reduces the risk of that replacement sheet bowing due to it only being nailed down the edges. The "proper" repair also calls for 2x blocking to be put in so provide nailing locations at the top and bottom edges of the patch (assuming the rafters are not exposed inside the house) and preferably also across the middle for better support. Many contractors would compromise in between - put 3 lines of blocking across the top and middle and bottom for support and nailing but still use a 2x4 repair piece.

If the rafters are exposed inside (cathedral ceiling or such), so reinforcing blocking cannot be put under the sheathing patch, then I would definitely expand the patch to bridge 3 rafters - or if that means tearing up interior wood finish like T&G boards, then make the patch out of 3/4" marine ply with the laps on the rafters rabbeted down to the thickness of the existing sheathing - this gives a stronger repair piece without adding support blocking under it to interfere with the ceiling finish appearance.

4) Then the roofing - pulling a few shingles to get the water barrier properly in under the existing at top and sides (bottom sticks out on top of the existing water barrier), then placing shingles to match existing roof as closely as is reasonably feasible with existing stock. For patches liek this I use Ice and Water Shield rather than normal roof water barrier. Probably would be covered by minimum repair charge of typically $250-300. (Finding and special shipment of "exact match" out-of-production shingles from else where in the country may run $150-200 more, if available from manufacturer or a distributor somewhere).

5) So total, I figure about $550-1050 for the change depending significantly on interior finish effects, and possible variations in shingle type and quality, plus possibly $100-400 more if tile/metal shingles and/or if special ordered and shipped to match original and color if not readily available locally (which is usually the case every model year).

6) Because of the tearout and new roofing, plus the interior finishing to match existing, I would recommend a Remodeling - General Contractor to handlethe several tasks unless you will be doing the interior refinishing yourself, in which case a Roofer should be able to handle the tearout and roof repair fine.

BTW - if there is a light box or light tube there now, I recommend tearing it out too - otherwise just covering over the ends creates a substantial risk of condensation and mold growing in it, especially in climates with snow on the roof or with heavy summer indoor air conditioning causing major temperature variations between the top and bottom. Drywall I would just remove - if plywood, at least be sure they drill a bunch of large holes through the sides to provide good ventilation.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD

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