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Question DetailsAsked on 7/15/2015

how much does it cost to run new plumbing for a toilet, shower, and sink to a bldg. 70' away from house plumbing?

So I'm trying to make a little apartment out of a separate little building from the house which is approx. 70' away from where the plumbing is in the house. There are actually two bathrooms in the house so whichever would be easier to hook up to. That's how it works, right? I'm just talking about the plumbing that would have all the parts ready for the sink and toilet and shower to be set up. I might be able to get someone to help me with that.

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Depends on a LOT of things - but here is a prior similar question with answer for a starter - realize that case does NOT include a 70' run to another building.

Issues with the separate building -

0) doing this without Planning and Zoning approval and building permit, which it sounds like you are doing if asking this question, will likely come back to bite you - if not when the city notes you are building an outlying residential structure, then when it comes time to sell or the next time the city/county appraiser comes around and notices it. A separate outbuilding other than non-residential detached garages or sheds are illegal in most residential zoning classifications.

1) going to probably run another $1000-1500 minimum to run the water and sewer pipes to the building and possibly twice that or even more if you have deep frost (so need deep burial) or shallow bedrock that has to be trenched.

2) at that distance, you will be lucky if you are uphill so the sewer drains correctly to the house - otherwise odds are you will need a grinding septic lift pump to boost the liquid to the existing sewer line or septic tank - and if this is going to be an infrequently used facility, that commonly results in a lot of issues with lift pumps.

3) usually for another bathroom not right near another one, rather than coming off an existing pipe at a bathroom you need to go back to the water source where the water pipe comes into the house, likely where it goes from 1 or 1-1/2" down to probably 3/4" - (typically has a shutoff valve there too), and tap off there, otherwise you are going to have a low flow rate at the new building. Likely, at 70' run, to need larger than 3/4" pipe run to there anyway, due to the added friction from that long a run - probably at least 1".

4) don't forget electric too - and maybe gas if using gas heat

5) running hot water from the house to the "apartment" is not a good idea - is going to take a long time to get hot water there, both because you will have 70'+ of "hot" water that has cooled off in the pipes to flush out before you start getting "hot" water at the faucet, but also with that long a run it will take a LONG time to heat the pipe and surrounding immediate ground enough so you actually get "hot" water. In fact, with a 70' in-ground run, unless extremely well insulated or recirculated (or likely both), I would guess you will likely never get "hot" water out there - just warm. A hot water recirculating pump can minimize this, but means wasting a LOT of energy in heating the ground up all year long. Usually the solution would be a separate hot water heater in the "apartment", though if not used regularly and with significant volume of hot water usage at least every few days you run a significant risk of the water heater going anaerobic - so the water coming out smells like sewage or sulfur and is brown or orange, plus eats through water heater and metal pipes real fast.

Bottom line - I would say you need an Architect - first for the P&Z approval and Building Permit issues (which will require plans to get a building permit anyway, at a minimum) plus that then gives you plans and hopefully a cost estimate, and a consistent scope of work for bidders to bid to and contractors to build to - or for you to build yourself so you have a prayer of building inspections passing.

Answered 5 years ago by LCD

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