Ask Your Question

Angie's List Answers is the trusted spot to ask home improvement and health questions and get answers from service companies, health providers and consumers. For ratings and reviews on companies in your area, search Angie's List.

 
 
or
Submit
Top 30 Days Experts
Rank Leader Points*
1 kstreett 240
2 Guest_9020487 110
3 Guest_9190926 105
4 GoldenKid 100
5 ahowell 95
6 KnowledgeBase 95
7 skbloom 80
8 Guest_98024861 70
9 Guest_9311297 70
10 Guest_9400529 70

*Updates every 4 hours

Browse Projects By Category

Question DetailsAsked on 8/23/2014

how muxh should it cost to add a gas start in my wood burning fireplace?

The gas lines are directly below the fireplace. It would be a matter of running a gas line through the brick and into the fireplace, and installing an on/off knob. I would.light it with a match.

Do you have the same question? Follow this Question


1 Answer

0
Votes

Probably in the $300-600 range and usually towards the higher end, PLUS the cost of drywall/painter contractors later repairing any openings necessary to run the pipe. Will need one at the existing gas line under the fireplace to put in a Tee or a tap, then maybe (though maybe not if contractor is creative with pre-assembly of pipe) one in wall just outside the fireplace facade where it turns horizontal to run to the firebox. This wall penetration can sometimes be eliminated by going in through the outside siding into the back of the fireplace blockout - depending on how easy siding type is to remove. The shutoff valve is usually installed as a "blind" valve with just a keyhole for the key to turn it on and off with a gas key, of course is drilled through the brick firebox near the front (and sealed with fireproof sealer), then the gas starter burner just sits in the bottom of the firebox - sometimes has one or two small anchor bolts to the floor of the firebox but commonly not, as putting holes where the coals are is a bad idea. You MUST have a heavy cast iron grate sitting over the starter burner to protect it from the weight and from being hit by logs being put in or rolling. Also, be careful not to lift or push/pullthe burner when cleaning out ashes, because you do NOT want to crack the gasline joint.


Make sure that any penetrations into the firebox are properly sealed with approved firebox sealant - usually a refractory mortar, NOT just regular cement grout or mortar and certainly not just regular caulk, because you do NOT want a hole for sparks or coals to escape through to contact the surrounding wood. I always require the holes (and any firebox seams or joints) be back-stuffed with rock wool (totally fireproof material that looks like fiberglass but is made of rock minerals - has pretty much replaces asbestos for this type of use) so if the sealer/mortar pops out or degrades there is still a secondary backup that is totally fireproof to stop embers or coals from passing through.

Answered 5 years ago by LCD




Related Questions


Terms Of Use
|
Privacy Policy