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Question DetailsAsked on 5/18/2014

looking for someone to install a wall dog door and to install a regular dog door

install an extra large wall dog door and install an extra large dog door

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Hello, this is Kyle K from the Member Care Department.

It sounds like you'll need the services of a door company or handyman. After you've signed in to www.angieslist.com, try searching "Doors" and "Handymen" using the "Search the List" tab in the main green navigation bar.

If you would like to see some Angie's List search results for door contactors in your area in this forum, please let me know by responding in line with this Q&A by submitting a new answer.

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Thanks for writing! - Kyle K

Answered 5 years ago by Member Services

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Here is a prior answer to that question I gave that should help -


https://answers.angieslist.com/I-find...


Avoiding the utilities in the wall is pretty obvious - having to move them costs more, especially with piping. I am sure what you mean by a wall dog door (self-evident) but a "regular dog door" - do you mean through a mandoor ? I would question why you need two dog doors, but your house. Also, if in an area with very low temps, do not put it within a full stud bay of unheated pipes - wall gets quite cold around the door if you don't put in an arctic entrance, and can freeze pipes in the walls.


Bear a couple of things in mind - the more visible from the street or walk the dog door is, the more it represents a security threat, as a moderate sized person can get through a medium or large dog door with a bit of effort and scraped ribs.


Also, be sure the person putting it in READS THE INSTRUCTIONS - especially with respect to the sill height - you do not install a dog door at floor level unless for a snake or iguana - you put the top of the opening a bit above the expected full-grown shoulder height for the dog, so it can go through without having to swayback or scrape its back. This means, for doors sized to match the dog, they have to step up and through and their belly just clears the sill. For older dogs, or in anticipation of an older dog with joint problems, a taller door is better, as they do not have to pull their legs up all the way to go through, and can step through one leg at a time instead of having to "bunny-hop" the rear legs through. Ditto for ramps - I have seen several cases where the door was installed right, but then they put approach ramps (outside typically) leading to it that come right to the sill height, rather than tothe interior floor height - so the dog's back is way too high for the door.


Be sure to warn the contractor that you do not want a messy cutout around the door - their edge trim is typically quite narrow, so you need to get the rough opening just right - just 1/2" overcut can result in exposed cut drywall or siding ends exposed at the side of the door and a messy caulk job.


Also, if the opening needed to install the door is more than stud spacing (usually 14-1/2") width, or you are confined to where it can go and have to install where a stud is, the installer has to put in auxiliary studs at the side and a header across the top to carry the load from the stud you have to cut. This can be done without overcutting the rough opening if you use care and some Simpson brackets to install the header overlength so it reaches from adjacent wall stud to stud, with pre-installed angle brackets on the botytom of it to line up and install the support studs on each side, all tucked into the wall opening behind the siding and drywall. Most doors up through large dog size are designed to fit between studs - extra large and great dane sized you have to cut one stud out - not something you might trust your everyday handyman to do right unless you have seen proof of his carpentry sense.


And PLEASE - do not cut the king studs that support an adjacent patio or french door header to make lateral room - I have seen several cases of that where they cut almost to the adjacent large-opening door frame, resulting in settling of the header and roof and jamming or in one case collapse of the adjacent header and door and overlying roof area, with associated destroyed siding and drywall.


If you live in cold climate or very windy or blowing rain area, consider an exterior plywood siding and treated 2x4 framed "arctic entrance" for the door - to fit around it on the outside and extend a few feet out from the wall, then install either another dog door at the end of it (for maximum protection) or just a draped old towel screwed on with a batten across the top as a flpa door to cut down on the cold air and wind coming through, and to reduce frosting of the dog door. It does not take much wind to move the flap in a dog door, so if your area is windy in the heating or AC season, you can get quite a draft coming in, or lose a lot of conditioned air, through a dog door.


One additional thing to consider, especially if putting in kitchen or dining room - you will get a LOT of shed hair from rubbing as pet goes through the door, and you will get water and grit tracked in on the flooring for a few feet inside the door, so not a good idea to put in an area with hardwood or sensitive floors. I use an outdoor entry solid rubber backed (waterproof) runner type doormat about 4 feet long, and take it up and clean underneath every couple of days.


IF you are away from home a lot, taking the dog with you, be sure to make provisions for an interior plywood flap with hasp that you can close - or a locking or bolted-in bar across it - to prevent someone from crawling in when the dog is not home to face it off. The slip-in plastic panels that come with the doors can be kicked in easily, so are more of a wind block or dog restrainer than a security measure.


And of course, something a lot of people forget till after the door is in - where does it lead to ? If not a fenced back yard, then your dog is free to roam loose. You would be amazed at how many times people put a dog door in the "perfect" place with respect to interior house function - but then realize they then have to build a new fence segment to lead the dog to the fenced yard it is supposed to be going out to.


Oh - and one more thing - do remember to install it the right way - with the flap on the outside so water does not fillthe doorway opening, and install waterproofing (ice and water shield) under the sill and overlapped outside and "rolled up" on inside wall (so water seeping through the dog door frame cannot get into the wall or run down the inside of the drywall - much like you should do with a window install but add the inside edge roll or fold to prevent drainage to the inside), because rain and wet dog water will get in the sill, and can soak down into the wall if not protected and well caulked. I added a full-depth laminate sheet on the sill of mine to catch water before it could get into the many openings in the dog door frame.

Answered 5 years ago by LCD




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