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Question DetailsAsked on 12/13/2017

need a mobile home plumber, pipe in bathroom leaks at on off for bowl

at on off for bowl water is seeping at fitting

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2 Answers


Plumbing would be your normal Search the List category for this. You have to be careful not to reef on the valve because if you break it off at the wall can be a pain to fix. If leaking at the fitting, possibly just tightening it a bit with a wrench or channel lock pliers will solve it - GENTLY, not reefing on it. May be frozen up with corrosion, so don't force it.

May also be the washer in the flex tubing has gone bad and needs replacing - would have to turn off valve (again, do not force that if frozen up) then flush the toilet to relieve the water pressure in the tubing so it does not spray at you when loosened, then detach it (tubing will be full of water so a fraction of a cup of water will come out).

If leaking at the flex tubing where it goes into the connecting nut (common with stainless spiral flex tubing) then you have to remove the entire tubing per above after turning off valve and flushing the toilet, make sure the valve is not leaking significantly (put pan or towel under if necesasary if dripping) and take the tubing to a plumbing or box store to get a replacement. Almost all toilets use standard size (but there are several lengths) supply tubing. Replace and tighten snugly - lightly wrench tight, do NOT reef on it, and try to back up the force on the toilet connection and on the valve with hand or pliers or wrench to minimize the otrqwue you put on the fittings while tightening the tubing nut.

Otherwise, Plumbing would be the Search the List category for this - normal service call charge can range from about $75-400 in labor cost extremes in the US during regular business hours - normally about $100-175 minimum charge in most areas.

Answered 2 years ago by LCD


OOPS - in rereading my answer after it posted, I may have misunderstood where the leak is.

I answered about it leaking at the supply tube. If the fitting / valve itself is leaking, several possibilities described below - but realize that if you try to tighten it and it starts leaking more or breaks off, you may then have to shut off the main shutoff valve for the entire house till it is replaced. These valves are pretty fragile, as is the typically 1/2" copper pipe leading to it, so you have to be careful and not use brute force - especially since they are commonly corroded up from minor leakage before they ever start visibly dripping.

If leaking around the valve stem, wrap a rag around the valve to protect the finish, hold the valve itself with channel lock pliers - or if there is a hex shape on it which is not a connecting nut, hold with a wrench there to keep the valve from turning, and gently tighten the cap nut (which the valve stem passes through) a touch. There is a bevel rubber washer (or similar) inside the cap which tightens around the stem as it is tightened down, to stop the leaking - but as they get real old sometimes they just disintegrate when you tighten it and then leaks so much you have to turn the supply to that line off to replace it.

If leaking where the valve connects to the pipe, if a threaded connection ditto - hold the fitting on the pipe end with a wrench so it can't twist or damage the pipe, then tighten the valve to it gently - just a small fraction of a turn, and be sure you are not pulling on the supply tubing to the tank or kinking it.

if a soldered connection to the pipe and leaking there, then the valve needs removal, pipe cleanup, commonly new valve, and resoldering (commonly cutting a bit of corroded pipe off first) if there is enough pipe sticking out, or if short or cut-off stubout then usually replacing the valve with one with a compression type fitting.

Unless you are home plumbing handy (which you probably are not because you asked this question), I generally do NOT recommend homeowners trying to fix supply valve problems, because they are commonly made of pot metal so break easily, are commonly corroded up so you have to put too much force into them to get fittings to turn (so can break them), because putting force on the valve without preventing it from turning on the pipe can break it off the pipe, and because if you do damage it or the seal breaks up in the process, you get a leak (very dramatic if you break it off the pipe) and have to shut off the main water to the entire house until it is repaired.

Plumbing is of course the Search the List category to find a plumber - typically about $10-15 part (either the valve or the flex tubing) and minimum service call charge of from $75-350 - normally about $100-150 in most of the country. Handymen can generally do this too - but unless you know one with plumbing skillsmay or may not give you a professional job.

Answered 2 years ago by LCD

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