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Question DetailsAsked on 1/30/2017

no hot water relaced water heater but still no hot water

i also noticed i have a water leak on my property, can that have something to do with that?

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3 Answers


Unless the leak is big enough that it would take all the water from the household pipes (or at least to the elevation of the hot water faucets), no on the leak.

When water heater was replaced the hot water should have been tested (though probably only warming at that time). Assuming it fired up OK (gas or oil or electric), I would be looking for a water valve that was shut off to do the replacement - either on inlet side (usually on cold pipe coming in at top of tank), or possibly an outlet side valve. If not firing, then look as gas connections or gas/oil suply issue. If electric, make sure the breakers or master on/off switch for the heater was turned back on.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD



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Answered 3 years ago by Member Services


You did not say if your unit has indicstor LED lights(s) on it - they go on or blink in certain patterns indicating operational status or trouble - see the codes in the owners manual for whether yours says it is functioning correctly.

One thing I did not mentionwhich might help your troubleshooting. If water will flow out of hot water faucets (check this on two-handle faucets for a definitive answer, not a single handle one, to be sure water is not bleeding over from the cold side because a leaking internal faucet seal) - then the problem is in the water heater, not a closed valve. If no water comes out (or very little maybe because the valve seat is letting a bit by) then the problem is a shut valve - probably one that was shut off to install the heater and he forgot to open it back up when done.

If some faucets in the house are getting water from the hot side and others not, then there is an intermediate valve shut off somewhere, or very remotely possibly a line blockage though that is usually not anywhere near complete if caused by some mineral buildup or such that broke feee during the servicing - total or near-total blockages of that kind almost always build up slowly, constricting the flow gradually over months or years.

Or - and yes I have seen this several times - he connected the piping without removing the shipping plugs in the water heater - most have a push-in plastic plug to keep debris out of the two pipe fittings on the top and the overpressure valve on the side. IF that turns out to be the problem, not only the two pipe connections should have the plugs removed but the overpressure valve also should be removed and checked for a plug - because a plug left in there could remove the protection that valve provides against a tank literally blowing up if it ever gets seriously overpressured !

Ditto to gas valve - they usually come with several shipping plugs which if not removed would prevent gas from getting to where it should.

If water DOES come out of the hot faucets, but is cold, then the flow path is OK but the heater is not heating. Check breaker and intermediate power switch (should be on wall within about 6 feet of the appliance if it receives 120V power) if electric fired or if it uses an electric power feed like newer high-efficiency ones with a heat pump mounted on top. Since you will not hear anything when it is turned on (though a red LED light may come on the face of the unit), you would have to wait a bit to see if it is heating up. You can (touch with wet hand to avoid possible burn) feel if the unit is heating (after a bit) by touching the hot water pipe leading out of the heater (if only one line has a shutoff valve on it over tank, hot should be the one without the valve). Feel a couple of feet away from the tank because at the top of the tank, if it has been sitting idle for awhile, both pipes will be at tank temperature - though obviously if both are cold, then the tank is not heating.

If oil or gas fired try turning the temperature setting dial on the water heater significantly higher for a bit (remember where it was set at to set back when done) and see if it fires up. And of course check that the water heater dial setting (see manual for what position corresponds to about what temperature) is high enough to produce about 125-135 degree water (you can check with thermometer in running water and adjust later as needed, because the dial settings for temperature are commonly not bvery accurate). Commonly 125 degrees is about 1/4-1/3 of the way up the range of settings from VACATION or LOW similar lowest setting to top. If the heater does not kick on within a few seconds, then you likely have a fuel or ignition issue - thermocouple or thermopile not operating so gas will not flow, gas control valve has a problem, gas shutoff valve on the gas line at the heater is off, or you are not getting fuel to the heater because of a fuel interruption (or tank is low/out if oil or propane).

Check if pilot is on - or if not a constant-on pilot type, see if pilot ignites when you turn the thermostat up - could be the pilot was never lit or went out for some reason.

If these suggestions and reading the manual do not solve it for you, then you need a Plumber - or many Heating and A/C contractors also do water heater work, but plumber is more commonly the one for this sort of diagnosis.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD

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