Ask Your Question

Angie's List Answers is the trusted spot to ask home improvement and health questions and get answers from service companies, health providers and consumers. For ratings and reviews on companies in your area, search Angie's List.

Top 30 Days Experts
Rank Leader Points*
1 kstreett 240
2 Guest_9020487 110
3 Guest_9190926 105
4 GoldenKid 100
5 ahowell 95
6 KnowledgeBase 95
7 skbloom 80
8 Guest_98024861 70
9 Guest_9311297 70
10 Guest_9400529 70

*Updates every 4 hours

Browse Projects By Category

Question DetailsAsked on 7/29/2016

what would be an estimated cost for relocating a home heating boiler within the same room

the boiler is being moved 25 feet closer to the area it needs to heat. There will be gas line move, electrical move and a double insulated pipe installed through the roof for a chimney

Do you have the same question? Follow this Question

1 Answer


Answer at your other post here -

That assumed your existing flue is in decent condition and reusable, and that there is a reasonable place to run it to the roof in the new location - either interior to house or up the outside wall. If interior, generally there is a "chase" framed out in original construction (commonly in a closet wall) for the flue pipe to run up in (because it will not fit in a normal wall dimension with 2x4, 2x6, or 2x8 construction. So - if looking to run it up a new location INSIDE the house generally you have to frame out a new chase, which means a bumpout in some room or closets to hold it. Otherwise, you can run it up the side of the house exposed like is commonly done for wood stoves, or build a framed and sided bumpout on the side of the house (assuming its new locations will be only a few feet from an exterior wall) to hold it.

One consideration which I may not have mentioned before - spending this much on moving an older boiler may not be money well spent - if paying to basically install a boiler and run new flue ducting, it will only be another $1000 minus in most cases to get an entirely new boiler at the same time. Or - spend maybe $500-1000 more and get a very high-efficiency unit, which can vent directly outside so do not run into the new flue routing issue at all.

Usually, unless this is a forever home for you, I do not recommend very high effeciency units because in normal gas cost areas they do not pay off until 20-30 years down the road - and most people do not stay in one house that long, nor do many modern units last that long. However, with the flue routing issue, you might well be better off, between fuel savings and savings from not having to route a flue through the existing house or build a bumpout, going with a direct-vent high effeciency unit.

One other thing I don't remember talking about - is WHY you want to do this. If to free up living space or gaet your heating unit out of living space (to make room or to eliminate excessive waste heating of that area), then maybe it is something you want to do. However, if just to get it closer to the areas it is heating, would be a LOT cheaper to just superinsulate the lines running to and from it for a few hundred $ (or much less if DIY) so there is minimal heat loss en-route to the heating zones.

If waste heat is the issue, though obviously it decreases your winter heating efficiency if done with passive ventilation, just framing out a utility room around it and providing fresh air inflow and waste heat exhaust venting to the outside or maybe to another area of the house that can use the heat (like maybe an unheated or underheated basement) can be effective. You just have to abide by HVAC and fire codes on clearances and fresh air supply and fire dampers in any ducting and such. I have designed simple fan and duct systems like this that routed the waste boiler heat to basements or "conditioned space" attics in the winter, then with a simple moving of a manual damper, routed it outside in the warmer periods where the waste heat overheated parts of the house.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD

Related Questions

Terms Of Use
Privacy Policy