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Question DetailsAsked on 4/5/2014

who can I hire to paint patio furniture?

I have outdoor patio furniture, metal, that needs repainting. Who does that kind of work? I can't seem to find anyone that says they do.

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1 Answer

Voted Best Answer

If it's quality furniture, do a Google search for , "powder coating paint in (your city/state)"

Powder coating will last much longer, plus they are usually set up to sandblast any rust, etc..


Answered 6 years ago by BayAreaAC


1) I would guess that if it is aluminum normal deck furniture, cheaper to replace than paint unless you get a neighbor kid to do it if you don't need a perfect job.

2) If expensive furniture, like wrought iron, then several professional possibilities, in rapidly increasing level of cost and probably quality of work:

Handyman, Painter, Auto body repair shop

3) If needs complete stripping, a wrought iron shop - then can usually acid dip and strip the paint off it, sandblast or shotblast, and repaint like new - but going to be probably, at just a guess without lawn furniture experience so based on getting commercial items done, maybe $50-100/piece assuming you have a 4 or more piece set - far more per piece if just one piece.

4) Not really tough to do yourself but is time consuming and done same way as iron or steel porch railings - sandblast or wire brush any rust off, powerwash if you have it, followed by some good scrubbing with a strong detergent like laundry soap and TSP added using a stiff scrub brush, let thoroughly dry, then paint. Use an outdoor enamel unless you are familiar with fancier epoxies which will last longer but are hard to work with for beginners. If rusty, start painting with rusty metal primer - I like Rustoleum. If paint was coming off but not rusty, prime with bare metal primer. Then apply a coat of same-brand primer, and two coat with finish coats with ample drying time in between. Spray cans work fine but watch out for overspray, and you waste about 2/3 or more of it doing the narrow pieces. Brushing works good but you need to get into crevices well, which also tend to rust first, so I recommend (after any rusty or bare metal primer is put on) priming all the hidden areas with primer spray paint first, let dry, then paint entire piece - normally in four passes - underside first, then flip over and clean up any drips that show on top or back or sides, then top and sides and back. Then again after a day or so protected drying for second coat.

5) Good product names in my opinion for homeowner use - Rustoleum, Creative, Valspar, Sherwin-Williams Resiliance among others. If you are well versed in using advanced or multi-component paints, then IPC Akzo-Nobel, PPG, MetCoat, DSM, Sherwin-Williams High Performance brands in thatorder, in my opinion. Automotive paints like from NAPA also tend to have a good adhesion and life on outdoor metal. Be sure to use primer and paints from same manufacturer and in same "family" - don't mix enamel with oil paint or epoxy, for instance unless it specifically recommends doing that with those specific paints, ,as wrong overcoat can lift and blister underlying layers. And make sure TOTALLY dry AND HARD to the fingernail before next coat, or you can end up with permanently sticky spots that can come off on clothes. Be especially careful of rusty metal primers with fish oil like Rustoleum - work terrifically, but can take 2-4 days to dry properly in all but best warm, dry conditions. Obviously, do not leave out in rain or snow or mist or sprinkler or temperatures below about 50 degrees till all coats are finished.

Answered 6 years ago by LCD

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