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Question DetailsAsked on 4/18/2018

who are the best replacement window companies on Long Island

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3 Answers


Your Search the List category to find other well-rated and reviewed vendors for this service is Windows and Doors.

You can also find a lot of previous questions with answers about window issues. some ballpark cost numbers for what you should be looking at for bid prices, and some opinions on brands, in the Windows category, under Browse Projects, at lower left. Before talking to vendors, do a bit of research on window thermal efficiency so you understand the terms they are going to be talking about, and to determine in advance just how energy efficient (and hence generally costly) you want to go - the Greenstar and EPA and EnergyStar websites have a lot of general info on energy ratings.

For your area you are certainly, at least for more than a summer beachhouse, looking at double pane windows at a minimum because of the many months of cool damp weather and common wind (which greatly increases window energy loses at the glass surface because wind greatly increases convective losses). And if within a few miles of the ocean I would think twice about aluminum for corrosion issues (on top of their generally poor thermal efficiency).

Answered 2 years ago by LCD


Usually the argon gas fill should be around 90 percent this reduces the chance of a blow out on extremly hot days. We at (Tri-Pane Installations) use insulated glass with a .26 u factor. The advanced seals technology offers the customer a warranty against seal failure. we cover that because the design should not allow the gases to escape. Not all windows and doors are made that way. The lower the u.value the better the insulation, you also want to look at condensation resistance numbers, there the higher number is better.

    ours is a .62 c.r.

Answered 2 years ago by the new window man


Excellent points by NewWindowMan, as usual.

His point about "90% fill" with the inert gas might not have been clear to you - that means pressuring the space between the windows to only about 90% of normal atmospheric pressure at the factory, to allow for pressuring-up as the gas between the panes heats in summer sunshine. Some triple-pane windows with reflective low-E films between the panes are actually normally pressurized differently depending on installation conditions (so obviously customized for the specific jobsite conditions expected during installation of the unit). So if installing in height of summer heat might be pressurized at say 90% of atmospheric pressure to provide a bit more of cushion for the hottest days, but if installing during winter might only be pressurized to say 70-80% of atmospheric to allow for the expected seasonal temperature differences in area's temps. For example - I have ordered windows for -50 to +100F operating range in arctic Alaska, which if installed during deep winter construction were pressurized to only 2/3 of atmospheric pressure to prevent summer seal blowouts.

His comment on fully sealed units is very important too - some brands brag they have a built-in vent valve to prevent overpressurization. This is simply a way of saying their seals cannot handle the summer gas expansion so they put in a (thereotically) one-way valve to release excess pressure but, in theory, not let air back in. Because of the very low pressures involved, and the need to keep these valves inexpensive, they tend to leak over time - meaning you not only lose your inert gas (which is a major contributor to the window insulating factor) but also tend to pull in air when they get cold, which also reduces the thermal efficiency you paid for - sometimes by as much as around 1/2 to twice as much heat flow through the window as when it was new. And generally speaking, once the gas is gone it is not feasible to regenerate it - the seals or fittings used to insert replacement gas tend to go bad quite quickly as well, so the benefits of the high-efficiency window is lost for life.

In your case, being in a maritime location without (though you might dispute this after the past couple of years) really severe conditions withaer hot or cold, so I would expect if you run the efficiency numbers you would find that a real high-end unit probably will not pay off. In fact, depending on sun exposure, it might be that your primary "special design factor" might be solar film (interior or surface applied) to reduce U/V intrusion to reduce fading of flooring and furnishings on the high sun-exposure side.

One other factor applied on some homes in your area (and similar windy beach and desert areas), if a beach home or in the dune areas, is an abrasion-resistant exterior film, which is applied to the outside of the window (may have U/V blocking properties as well) to prevent sand blasting of the glass. This film is then peeled off and replaced (without removing window or glass) and replaced every 5-10 years as it ages and is weather worn. Can make the difference in wind-blown sand areas between a 10 and 40 year window unit life, and costs a small fraction of the cost of replacing the glazing unit when it gets too sand blasted for acceptable viewing.

Answered 2 years ago by LCD

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