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Question DetailsAsked on 10/14/2015

why does the 220 volt plug for my stove protruding from the wall? Is this normal?

This was not a problem with the old stand alone stove with some hollow space behind it. But I now have a slide-in electric range that has a smooth, flat back that would sit flush to a wall.

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2 Answers


I am guessing you have a surface-mount receptable like this, commonly used in concrete and brick construction where they do not want to put a box in the wall, and especially for retrofit work -

Or do you mean just the normal 1/4" or so protrusion of a 220V outlet like this -

If the former, an electrician can knock a hole in the wall and mount a normal electrical box in the wall (assuming stud wall, not solid) and put the second type in for about $75-150 labor tuypically and about $20-40 parts.

If you have the second type, it sticks out a bit to improve the airgap between the prongs and the metal parts when plugging and unplugging to minimize the risk of an accidental high-amperage contact with metal. If that is causing clearance issues, there are recessed boxes and outlets like this -

available (with difficulty - not in general stock in the US but available from specialty commercial electrical distributors - used mostly in restaurant/hotel kitchens and hospitals) which an electrician could get and install for about same cost as regular "flush mount" type above - about $75-150 labor typically plus about $100 or so parts. However, note that type makes the cord come pretty much directly "out" relative to the wall rather than lie flat along it like normal 220V cord, so probably would not help much because the safe bend in the cord to run horizontal or vertical would take up the same space or more.

If you have the "flush mount" outlet and the 3 inches or so clearance needed for it and the plug is not enough room, maybe you need to be looking at the clearance requirements for your stove - common required back clearance is on the order of 4 inches, so you may be trying to shove the stove back closer to the wall than it is designed to go for fire safety. I have never seen a range where the back is allowed to go flush to the wall, so that may be your problem - read the installation manual on required clearances from various types oif materials. Check the flooring type requirement too - some newer ranges, especially side-by-side oven types, require fire-resistant flooring under them but many people put them on linoleum, wood, laminate, etc - a firefighter friend of mine said this is getting to be a more common type of kitchen fire.

Answered 4 years ago by LCD



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Answered 4 years ago by Member Services

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