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Question DetailsAsked on 9/15/2017

why is the water running through the faucet when the fixture is off?I turned the shutoff onbut thefixture is closed

i work at a hotel and the plumbing is good fairly new. the handle is in the off position and i open the shutoff valve to get the water flowing agaoin and the water doesnt stop running through the spout. i dont know why...??? i have all the o rings i need in place. im going crazy over here...please help

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1 Answer


Couple of possibilities I know of:

0) simplest solution, if this is the case - with some of these, you have to run at full flow then shut off to "seat" the ring seals - just cycle the faucet through full to shutoff a couple of times and see if that solves the problem. Also check if just hot or cold or both doing it - would tell you if you have one or two sides misbehaving.

00) check if perhaps you did not get all the previous seal or spring out of the unit before reassembly.

1) you left out a ring or spring - if like a Peerless or Delta single handle faucet, there are commonly a rubber sleeve seal (which the water runs through the middle of) with spring inside for both hot and cold inlet orifices, a ball of course, a sealing gasket or O-ring between the base and the cap, and a plastic ring or flange (typically with a slot for the shaft of the handle to fit through) - plus of course the top threaded cap and handle.

2) from above - in some the sleeve seal is not symmetric - has an up and a down side (typically cupped on top to fit the ball, recessed on the bottom to receive the spring, which holds it tight to the ball.

3) springs are commonly tapered - usually large end goes down into a seat in the orifice in the base piece, smaller end into the rubber seal - put upside down and the spring will slip down into the orifice past the seat and not hold the seal tight to the ball, letting water flow past

4) put ball in backwards and this can happen with some models - with others put it in backwards and water will not turn on at all regardless of handle position - when faucet is in off position the ball should be positioned so solid part is over the two orifices, then they are uncovered and exposed to holes or slots in the ball when the handle is lifted up to ON.

5) the threaded cap is not tightened down so the ball is not being pushed down tight onto the sleeve seals, letting them leak. The slotted plastic flange piece also needs to be down in place firmly (usually has tabs so it cannot be put in wrong way) and typicallyo the top of it is flush or slightly recessed BELOW the top of the base threads for the cap - and has to be threaded down (if it is threaded type) so the ball has light resistance to movement. If the slip-in type the top flange it has to be seated fully down into the tab slots, then the threaded cap tightened down to slight ball resistance to moving. If handle/ball moves freely (can be flipped around) the cylindrical seals will not be in good contaxt with the ball and be leaking.

6) slit/crack in sleeve gasket or O-ring or the ball - I have seen cracked balls or cylinder faucet innards in fairly new facuets (less than 10 years old)

7) this one is VERY frustrating but I have run into it with Delta/Peerless repair kits - some models have longer sleeve seals and springs than others - in my experience, with those particular brands the kitchen and bathroom long one-handle faucets takes the longer ones, the round ball type handled bathroom/shower take the shorter ones, but I don't know if this is universal or not. Put the short ones in a faucet needing the long ones and it will trickle - may shut off in one particular position but not if you just push the handle to generally the bottom of the range of motion.

8) some brands and repair kits have both plastic and metal balls available - at least in the ones I have worked with, they are NOT interchangeable - different sizes by a fair bit - as I recall (this may be wrong) metal was larger by a hair ? I have also hit replacement ball-type valve kits which may have been for different brnds - had a different hole orientation/location on the ball, so it would not work in another brand.

9) some models have two large (about 2" or so) O-rings - on the ones I have hit like that, the O rings can be different cross-section diameter so swapping them would presumably allow a leak, though normally I think that would cause a leak from the handle area, not allow flow through the spout - but who knows.

You might get some help from the faucet manufacturer website, or by eMailing them with a photo of the faucet taken apart and parts laid out.

If this is a trickle basically, I would suspect not tightened down properly, or wrong seals. If full flow, backwards/cracked ball or ball flange would be my suspicion. Hate to say this (I can envision it mushrooming into a cascade of problem faucets) but in a hotel where a lot of the fixtures are the same, you might have to find a room that is out of service for some reason and take another good one apart and check the exact configuration and size and orientation of the parts to see what is different with the problem child.

Good Luck

Answered 3 years ago by LCD

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